Gear shift coupler-Replacing bushings

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gregg hake
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Gear shift coupler-Replacing bushings

#1 Post by gregg hake »

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Hi...bought some new gear shift coupler bushings because mine has so much slop. when I got the new bushings, I see they are built to have slop, but, "Oh Well", I will replace anyway.

I tried to drive out the pin, by pounding on both ends hoping one would work if the other didn't. No Luck.

What is the secret? Will the pin come out from either side or is there a wrong side? Ive tried "Kroiling" the beJesus out of it but it wont budge.

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Mike Wilson
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Re: Gear shift coupler-Replacing bushings

#2 Post by Mike Wilson »

The pin will come out either side. It is serrated in the middle. Make sure the coupler is well supported as the aluminum housing is easy to break (as they say, ask me how I know). Let the Kroil work for a while. I try to put most of force on the shaft rather than the housing when I hit it.

Mike
Mike Wilson
Lomita, CA
'63 B coupe

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Doug McDonnell
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Re: Gear shift coupler-Replacing bushings

#3 Post by Doug McDonnell »

If you have access a press is my favorite way to get the shaft out and back in.
1965 356C 2000 BMW 740i Sport 1967 Honda CL77 There is never enough time to do it right, but always enough time to do it over.

Mike Horton
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Re: Gear shift coupler-Replacing bushings

#4 Post by Mike Horton »

If the bushing hole is elongated, those were modified for the mid '67 and on 900 cars, when they had the rubber transaxle mounts added, to suppress vibration through to the chassis. The 914s, had the centered holes, and these you received, may have been superseded, Brad will know.

The early 900 cars with solid mounts, when they had a front to rear shock load, like crossing a raised railroad track, could pull the trans out of gear, these rubber mounts, and elongated coupler bushings, were the factory cure.
Mike

Mike Horton
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Re: Gear shift coupler-Replacing bushings

#5 Post by Mike Horton »

I use an old solid steel driver (bolt, etc), with an OD just under the pin size. Once the pin moves, it usually drives further, easier. I try to hold the steel yoke in a solid vice, and, yes, the cast aluminum yoke, is fragile,

Be sure to resafety the grub bolt, so it can't back out, if it works loose. If this bolt is loose, the shifting will be erratic,
Mike

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Jacques Lefriant
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Re: Gear shift coupler-Replacing bushings

#6 Post by Jacques Lefriant »

i am with Mike the easiest is to grab the shaft in a vice and punch out the pin that way you will not break the aluminum piece. presses can be dangerous.
j
 

gregg hake
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Re: Gear shift coupler-Replacing bushings

#7 Post by gregg hake »

Thanks for the input, gentlemen. I finally got it out after applying your tips. I held the shaft securely in a vise, and set the aluminum housing on a big socket so the pin could be pushed through the socket hole. I wanted to make certain I had everything secured as much as possible.

Then I started pounding the pin using a steel bar with a square end. I have to admit I was a bit worried as it didn't budge after several minutes of pounding, but then it finally "gave" and came out easily after that.

I was assuming the pin surface would be buggered up since it was so hard to move, but actually both the pin and the aluminum housing were smooth.

Anyway, I hit the housing with a wire wheel and sanded the pin and shaft with fine emery, then put in the new bushings and reassembled. It looks beautiful now !!

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Mike Wilson
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Re: Gear shift coupler-Replacing bushings

#8 Post by Mike Wilson »

Congrats! We are happy we could help.

Mike
Mike Wilson
Lomita, CA
'63 B coupe

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