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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 12:42 pm 
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So since I've owned my '59, I've always had my mechanic change the oil. Well, I've decided to tackle it myself now that I have more time. I know there is a big thread on oil and a lengthy discussion, but I want to just keep this simple, SO here are my questions...

1. Is there a good resource online for the best way to jack up the car to avoid damage, etc.?

2. I'm planning on using 20W-50 Valvoline VR1 racing oil with ZDDP?

3. What is the best oil filter and where to buy one?

ANY OTHER TIPS, SUGGESTIONS, DO' & DON"T's are always appreciated.

Thanks in advance! (Again, I know this info is probably scattered around the forum, but I looking for the quick to the point answer without the lengthy discussions...so I can get to the task at hand)

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 1:07 pm 
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Joel Gardner wrote:
So since I've owned my '59, I've always had my mechanic change the oil. Well, I've decided to tackle it myself now that I have more time. I know there is a big thread on oil and a lengthy discussion, but I want to just keep this simple, SO here are my questions...

1. Is there a good resource online for the best way to jack up the car to avoid damage, etc.?

2. I'm planning on using 20W-50 Valvoline VR1 racing oil with ZDDP?

3. What is the best oil filter and where to buy one?

ANY OTHER TIPS, SUGGESTIONS, DO' & DON"T's are always appreciated.

Thanks in advance! (Again, I know this info is probably scattered around the forum, but I looking for the quick to the point answer without the lengthy discussions...so I can get to the task at hand)



You don't need to jack it up to change the oil, you shouldn't anyway as it will tilt the engine and you won't drain all of it.
I don't use the drain plug, after I drive the car a bit to heat up the up the oil, I park it, lie down with a 10mm wrench, put an oil pan under the sump plate and remove the nuts from the front of the plate first (front being front of the car) then the side ones then the ones in the back, eventually the plate will begin to tip and the oil spill out. Let it all drain, then remove remaining nuts, the plate, gaskets and screen and clean everything with carb cleaner, let dry, reinstall.
Don't overtighten the nuts, you don't want to strip them or the studs. Check after a drive to tighten them a bit more if needed.
Pretty simple on the whole.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 1:50 pm 
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Assuming you will change the filter also. There will be a lot of oil in the filter canister. I remove it with a turkey baster that is for shop use only.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 2:58 pm 
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Hi Joel,
I guess I do things a bit differently. As stated, do not jack up the car. I use an old 5 quart oil container with either the front or back side (viewed with the container vertical) removed and use the main plug to drain the oil. It fits a bit better under the car and you don't have to worry about the oil flow overwhelming the drain hole in a typical pan which can cause bubbling and overflow problems. I replace the plug and drain the used oil into my recycle container. Then I undo the sump cover acorn nuts and washers to check and clean the screen and then replace the gasket and reinstall. As for the filter, are you using an aftermarket full flow system or the stock bypass filter? I have the stock bypass system on both of my cars and the only off the shelf filter that seems to be available, to me anyway, is the Wix 51010 unit. The rubber cover gasket they provide works fine. Finally, X2 on Doug's turkey baster method. It works great and keep it locked away on Thanksgiving. Good luck!


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 4:21 pm 
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I agree with the previous comments but it does depend on your facilities. I have a two post lift so my oil changes are simpler. I will comment on the oil filter though. I use whatever version of the bypass oil filter element I can find for the least cost as it is not subject to any real pressure and/or flow rate. I also remove the filter housing every time I change the filter because it is faster for me than doing the turkey baster bit, partly because I can never seem to find the turkey baster, plus I can clean the gunk out that appears to settle out between filter changes. I change my filters at every 6K miles which was the recommended interval back when the cars were new and oil was not as good as it is now so shorter intervals are contraindicated to me.
Various manufacturers versions of the original filter are available. X ref shows the following.
Mahle 72127
Fram C3
Fram C3P
Purolator PM3003
Bosch - OX79
AC P203
Knecht EN 108
Motorcraft FL 144
Wix 51010
Bosch - OX79
NAPA gold 1001
Also beware of the gasket/seal in the lid. There are slightly different configurations of lids and sometimes the seal supplied with the filter does not fit and seal properly. The thick composite material seals are the worst which are supplied with the C3P filter. Most of the others come with a synthetic rubber seal which appears to fit all lids.
Also examine the filter oil lines, just like fuel lines they age and can fail without warning. Usually because they become inflexible and crack under the metal braid so flex them when you remove the filter and change them if they feel stiff.

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Last edited by David Jones on Sun Jun 10, 2018 10:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 4:35 pm 
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I loved this video from Heidi and Franny's Garage -

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pHu3YKwTblk

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 4:39 pm 
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Dan Epperly wrote:
[...]I don't use the drain plug, after I drive the car a bit to heat up the up the oil, I park it, lie down with a 10mm wrench, put an oil pan under the sump plate and remove the nuts from the front of the plate first (front being front of the car) then the side ones then the ones in the back, eventually the plate will begin to tip and the oil spill out. Let it all drain, then remove remaining nuts, the plate, gaskets and screen and clean everything with carb cleaner, let dry, reinstall.[...]

Two reasons not to use the drain plug:
1) It leaves several ounces of the nastiest, most contaminated oil right there at the oil pump inlet.
2) Every time it is removed, it removes a little more aluminum from the case. After 50+ years, you might need sealant to keep it from leaking.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 4:58 pm 
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All very good advice so far. I'll add that we use Valvoline VR1 in all of the older Porsches we service. Get a bulk pack of microfiber cloths from Costco or Walmart. Use the microfiber cloths to wipe the bottom of the oil filter housing and also the inside of the engine case on the bottom from the open sump cover hole. You should also check to be sure your sump plate is completely flat before reinstalling. Many times a file is needed to make it flat again. You will be filing the material around the holes where someone has over tightened the nuts on the sump and distorted it. A little bit of liquid pipe thread sealant will help the drain plug from leaking. Stay away from pipe thread tape. Pieces of that tape can end up in places it shouldn't. We also use a bit of Reinzosil-T sealant on the sump gaskets. It works well, but is not difficult to remove the next time an oil change is required. While you are there, if your valve covers are leaking at all, install a set of Vic's steel core gaskets. Some of the cars we service have been using the same set for more than 10 years without leaking.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 5:30 pm 
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Two reasons not to use the drain plug:
1) It leaves several ounces of the nastiest, most contaminated oil right there at the oil pump inlet.
2) Every time it is removed, it removes a little more aluminum from the case. After 50+ years, you might need sealant to keep it from leaking.

Then why did Porsche bother to have it? I have been using the original plug/case for 40+ years with no leaks or repairs or teflon tape or any other nonsense. I get that you still have to remove/replace the sump cover so I don't understand that comment either.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 6:42 pm 
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The world is not going to come to and end if you just do a quick oil change once in a while, without touching anything else. The way I see it a quick oil change is better than doing no oil change at all. Do not over-tighten the drain plug, you will be just fine. Go drive her and enjoy yourself.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 7:40 pm 
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Thanks for all the great advice!

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 8:42 pm 
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Jon Schmid wrote:
[...]Then why did Porsche bother to have it?

I wasn't there, so I can't say for sure, but it's a good bet it was for the same reasons we had sparrow-strainer 'air filters' and that contestant in the 'oil-filter look-alike' contest. It wasn't until after that mid-'50s Ford study that automotive engineers began to get serious about clean oil
Jon Schmid wrote:
[...]I get that you still have to remove/replace the sump cover so I don't understand that comment either.

Don't understand; what comment?

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 9:29 pm 
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Try NAPA Gold oil filter 1001. Traveling, so number is from memory. If this one does not look right, ask for an oil filter for a Massey Ferguson tractor. I have used Vavoline 20/50 Racing Oil for years. Works great.

Walt Nolte
59 A Coupe
Montana

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 10:44 pm 
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Walt I have added that filter to the list I posted up the page and also note that it is the same filter used on a Ford 2, 8 and 9N tractor.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2018 7:39 am 
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Ron LaDow wrote:
Jon Schmid wrote:
[...]Then why did Porsche bother to have it?

I wasn't there, so I can't say for sure, but it's a good bet it was for the same reasons we had sparrow-strainer 'air filters' and that contestant in the 'oil-filter look-alike' contest. It wasn't until after that mid-'50s Ford study that automotive engineers began to get serious about clean oil
Jon Schmid wrote:
[...]I get that you still have to remove/replace the sump cover so I don't understand that comment either.

Don't understand; what comment?


1) It leaves several ounces of the nastiest, most contaminated oil right there at the oil pump inlet.


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