Clamping Plates on the transmission supports
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- 356 Fan
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Clamping Plates on the transmission supports
The A manual indicates using 3 clamping plates per side when installing the transmission supports in an A car. The B manual shows only two. Since I'm using the later metal rubber mount surrounds on my 59A should I only use 2 plates since the metal cup also spaces the transmission out about the same as the third plate would on an A transmission without the metal cup? Where would the third plate have been placed in any case? I couldn't find any pictures or discussion on the transmission supports in my A manual.
- Eric Wills
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Re: Clamping Plates on the transmission supports
2 plates each side. The cups substitute the plates used on early dual mount cars. Install one plate on each side of the trans mounts welded to the torsion bar tube.
Eric Wills
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Re: Clamping Plates on the transmission supports
I'm missing the one between the transmission mount and the body. Is there a way short of removing the engine to install one?
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Re: Clamping Plates on the transmission supports
Actually, I'm missing the one between the cup and the body. Does anyone have a technique for installing it?
- Eric Wills
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Re: Clamping Plates on the transmission supports
If the car shifts properly and has the proper rear toe, I would leave it alone.
If you must install the plates, you can,
remove all of the round mount nuts and washers.
use something to lightly put pressure between the nose cone and chassis to force the engine trans assembly (lightly) towards the rear of the car. You don't need much movement here. Whatever you use should not be able to damage anything......we have used a small porto-power alligator jack with small blocks of wood.
Then remove the mounts one at a time, add the shim, put mounts back in place.
The nose cone should be centered in the tunnel opening, so you may have to move the trans up or down with a jack or under lift stand to center it.
Tighten all fasteners, once centered.
But, you may want to have the rear alignment checked before you mess with it. I have seen very original A cars that have only had the cups and 1 plate on the outside of the each ear. Keep in mind these changes will have an affect on your shifter and how it engages the gears fore and aft. I have had customers that have added spacers on their transmission mounts only to find out it pops of of gear while driving. Spacers removed, problem solved.
If you must install the plates, you can,
remove all of the round mount nuts and washers.
use something to lightly put pressure between the nose cone and chassis to force the engine trans assembly (lightly) towards the rear of the car. You don't need much movement here. Whatever you use should not be able to damage anything......we have used a small porto-power alligator jack with small blocks of wood.
Then remove the mounts one at a time, add the shim, put mounts back in place.
The nose cone should be centered in the tunnel opening, so you may have to move the trans up or down with a jack or under lift stand to center it.
Tighten all fasteners, once centered.
But, you may want to have the rear alignment checked before you mess with it. I have seen very original A cars that have only had the cups and 1 plate on the outside of the each ear. Keep in mind these changes will have an affect on your shifter and how it engages the gears fore and aft. I have had customers that have added spacers on their transmission mounts only to find out it pops of of gear while driving. Spacers removed, problem solved.
Eric Wills
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Re: Clamping Plates on the transmission supports
Eric; great advice.
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Re: Clamping Plates on the transmission supports
Thanks, Eric, That is just what I needed. What got me started was the fact that I was getting a vibration through the body at a certain vibration about 3,200rpm plus I was having trouble getting the car into first and second. I just ordered a new lockout plate that might help with the shifter but one mechanic said the vibration could be from the transmissions contact to the body. The car tracks and drives great. At this point, I am just going by the manual and now you to find a solution. Now I suppose someone is going to jump in here about the vibration and the motor, flywheel, or the clutch. In that case, I'm starting to get good at avoiding 3,200rpms since the motor runs well.
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Re: Clamping Plates on the transmission supports
We also ran the motor alone with no indication of any vibration.
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Re: Clamping Plates on the transmission supports
I believe T-1's did not have cups, only rubber donuts and clamps. Using cups on car that came without them may lead to difficulty adjusting shift linkage.
Michael Foster
Michael Foster
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