65C Coupe Brake lights inop.

[James Learmonth]

Brake lights inop. Turn signals are normal, wiring and brake light switch are normal. Following the advice of Joe Leaoni (in his book) I cycled the turn signal switch energetically through several cycles as a last resort. Brake lights work. What? Joe goes on to say that further cleaning of the contacts in the turn signal switch may help but the obvious best solution is replace the switch assembly.
Anyone with a recommendation for a source for the switch or experience with a rebuilder or rebuilt switches please let me know. I need a good reason to go to Stoddards with $770 in my hand. but I am willing.

Jim Learmonth
65C Coupe
Houston, TX

[Doug McDonnell]

There is a guy in Illinois who rebuilds originals. I have heard that the new ones sold now are not as robust as original. I would have it rebuilt if I were you. I think he has a waiting list though. http://www.type356a.com/blinkerswitch.html Some have described spraying contact cleaner into the switch also.

[Sean M Rooks]

Had the same problem and it turned out to be the switch, once everything else checked out (jumpering past the switch, for example, to make sure it definitely was the switch that was the issue).

Doug Feistamel (the link the other Doug shared) did a great job on my switch, including rechroming the stalk and a new knob. His turnaround time was pretty good. I sent it to him in October and had it back in January. He restores your switch and doesn't send you back a different one - it's not a core donation in other words.

-Sean

[John Weyand]

+1 I got my rebuilt switch back recently from 356A and it has all new wires (now in correct colors) and beautiful chrome stem. I will be installing it this week with full expectation of flawless function. (edit) The switch is now installed and works flawlessly and is beautiful to look at.

[James Learmonth]

Update: Got some contact cleaner and liberally sprayed as much of the switch as I could. Now the brake lights really don't work. Rats!

Jim

[Leo Hudson]

Back up lights don't work could be bad switch located on driver side of transaxle.
Leo

[Greg Scallon]

James,
Is it possible that you didn't wait long enough for the contact cleaner to dry, and when you tried the switch it shorted and blew out fuse number 1? Just a thought.

Just last weekend I had a similar issue where just one of my brake lights wasn't working. Through process of elimination and a study of the wiring diagram, I concluded it had to be a faulty connection in the switch mechanism. I checked the connections, wiggled a few, made sure the wires were separated, and cycled the switch a bunch, and now I'm back in action. Luck maybe, but it's working again.

Good luck with yours. Figuring things like this out is the fun part, right?

-Greg

[John Laettner]

I had the same problem on my C. I used the contact cleaner for the turn signal switch. That didn't work for me. I then cleaned the fuse box and replaced the old fuse. I replaced the brake light switch in back of the master cylinder, too. It was either the fuse or the brake light switch and I was back in business-- I also cleaned the grounds at the back of the lights--which can be an issue, too.
John

[Mike Wilson]

As with any problem, a systematic step by step process will solve it. I have to ask: how did you check the brake light switch?

Mike

[Ben Wainscott]

James,

Agree that a systematic step by step process is required due to the way wiring is for the lights/turn signals/brakes/high beams/low beams/switches/etc. I had a bazaar lighting problem when I switched to LED tail lights that took a bit to sort out, and was due to excessive resistance in the ignition switch and turn signal switch. Assuming that your troubleshooting has brought it down to the turn signal switch, I would try cleaning it with using a good contact electrical cleaner. One I like is Puretronics Extra-Strength Contact Cleaner (PT3600). It is an excellent contact cleaner, but realize that it will remove all lubricants etc in the switch.

During troubleshooting of my problem I talked to Ed at Klasse356 as he had rebuilt the switches in the past and had built a tester and tested my turn signal switch. Although mine worked it had substantial friction, was kind of "notchy", and required you to hit the sweet spot for it to work properly. Ed now has a gent that rebuilds the switches for him and he had one in stock. Bought one, and it was a key item sorting out the problem.

FYI, Ed had purchased one of the new one's and had it disassembled to use if parts were needed. He said that his re-builder took it apart, and considered them junk. I have no personal knowledge of the new switches, but Ed knows his stuff.

[Dick Weiss]

The 1st thing to check--if the brake lights are inop--is the master cylinder switch for dirt, corrosion, or a wire fell off; Add the boot.

[John Weyand]

To test the brake light switch, get under the car to the master cylinder and disconnect both wires. the with a friend at the wheel, attach your test leads to the terminals (using the ohms function on the test meter) and have the assistant press the brake pedal. You must have continuity through the switch when the pedal is pressed or the switch is bad and must be replaced.