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Re: Unstable roadholding

Posted: Wed Apr 18, 2018 1:41 am
by Erik Thomas
Geoff is correct on the ZF steering box. Take a look for the chisel mark on the shaft stub at the box. At center, the small mark must align. The steering box must be centered before adjustment. It is tight only at the center, as the steering worm is machined to be tight in the center and loose on the sides.

The correct way to set the ZF steering is to center the box on the chisel mark, then make the steering wheel match straight inside the car often by moving splines, then lock the steering wheel straight ahead with clamps in the car. Then set the tie rod ends to bring the wheels straight. Only when all done with the above, adjust the screw on the steering box at straight ahead. A tiny bit of play is best. You do not want to feel even a slight bind at center.

Re: Unstable roadholding

Posted: Thu Apr 19, 2018 2:38 pm
by Jaco Naude
Thanks again.
Geoff, the steering has been returned to centre. But.... unlike other cars, bicycles etc the steering doesn't " self-centre" driving at speed. When overtaking or leaving a bend in the road , I have to physically steer the car back to straight. Must add that when new kingpins were pressed into the front hubs, one side ended up stiffer. I greased the nipples again after reassembly. When the front is raised on a jack though, I can easily turn the wheels side to side ( lock to lock) by hand.
Doug, thank you for the link write-up by Gregg.
I will try to post a picture of the car ,viewed from the back, this weekend. Don't know how to upload a picture yet...luckily have teenage kids to help with that
Jaco

Re: Unstable roadholding

Posted: Thu Apr 19, 2018 3:38 pm
by David Jones
Jaco, I have driven a car with a badly set up rear end and it did exactly as you describe. I had to steer it back to centre, it did not self centre as you found. Once I re-aligned the back end properly it was back to normal again. Get the rear aligned before you do anything else.

Re: Unstable roadholding

Posted: Mon Apr 23, 2018 8:04 am
by Jaco Naude
Solved the sticky steering. The steering wheel hub rubbed against the indicator housing. A spacer solved that.
Jacked up the rear as experiment to see the change in toe-in. Set the car a flat surface, jacket it up until the rear wheels were vertical ( measured with spirit level) . The change was 8mm of toe-in correction, measured from the rim to the body. Dismantled the rear suspension as described and moved the torsion inner bar spline one notch. Car now stands 2cm higher, camber close to vertical and virtually no toe-in. Will do other side next weekend and let you know if road holding has improved.
Jaco

Re: Unstable roadholding

Posted: Mon Apr 23, 2018 8:08 am
by Vic Skirmants
A one-spline change usually gives about a SEVEN degree change in camber!

Re: Unstable roadholding

Posted: Mon Apr 23, 2018 9:57 am
by Doug McDonnell
Jaco If you want to have a car that handles correctly then you must set it up correctly. Shop manual has correct settings (angles) for swing arm. But you say you have a 62 C in 1st post. 62 which was a B has different torsion bars and different setting than a 64 or 65 C. Like my dad who was a mechanic used to say "There is never enough time to do it right-but there is always enough time to do it over." If needed let us know what year car (Vin # would help) and we can give you correct angle to set the swing arm to. By the way a spacer is not the correct way to set up your steering wheel.

Re: Unstable roadholding

Posted: Mon Apr 23, 2018 12:42 pm
by Jaco Naude
Doug , you are correct. The spacer caused play on the shaft so" I took it out and moved the indicator housing about 1mm forward by loosening the allen key screws under the dash.
The VIN number is 119699. 1962 .Porsche S badge at the back, double grills at the rear and drum brakes. External fuel cap. That will be B T6?
Apologies for mistype on first post. Car was bought through Beverley Hills Car club.
It also has a 356 registry badge , which makes me believe one of the previous owners was a club member. I have a name on the New Mexico title deed. If it is possible to get in contact with this gentleman, it would certainly answer a few questions.
Apart from the rear suspension issues, I would also like to obtain info on the enjine. The car was delivered with what appears to be a fairly new enjine, but with no id markings or numbers. There is an X stamped in the middle just to the left of the generator mounting. I am running Zenith 32 NDIX 28 venturi carbs. ( discarded the ill Webers with which the car was delivered). Jettings are for S model. Starts and runs beautifully.
Would appreciate more help and info.
Regards
Jaco

Re: Unstable roadholding

Posted: Mon Apr 23, 2018 12:55 pm
by Doug McDonnell
https://porsche356registry.org/chassis/119699.0 Per my B service manual rear camber +10" to + 1 degree 30" and equal both sides rear toe 0 degree + or - 30' page W14 of my manual Steering column set up is on page S38. Nice diagram that will to upload today for some reason. Engine number in the old VinDb is for a C engine. So it was not numbers matching then. It sounds like you have a replacement case engine. I always say that you can't tell if numbers matching while driving. And yes that would be a 62 T6B Lots of oddities on 62 cars that were 1 year only. Bottom sender tank, washer bottle that had tube into body-not through cap, combo gauge fuel indicator had a red line between empty and 1/4 tank with an R above the red line. None of which matters for a driver. Neither name in the VinDb showed in a search of topics as author. Perhaps someone in New Mexico would know something about the car. You might start a New Mexico thread with the 2 names and see if you can find out anything.

Re: Unstable roadholding

Posted: Mon Apr 23, 2018 1:47 pm
by Jaco Naude
Appreciated, thanks
Jaco

Re: Unstable roadholding

Posted: Mon Apr 23, 2018 8:02 pm
by Jim Nelson
Worth checking sway bar and rear rubber bushings, too. If there’s leakage from the steering box, it can find it’s way to the sway bar bushings, (ask me how I know....)