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 Post subject: Ignition switch grease
PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2018 3:45 am 
356 Fan

Joined: Tue Apr 15, 2008 1:09 am
Posts: 106
Location: Sydney Australia
Hi all
I would like to take apart my ignition switch and give it a clean/service. Could someone kindly guide me,should I grease the contacts? If so, which grease should I use dielectric, conductive carbon grease etc.
Anything else I should be aware of before taking apart the switch. (1959 356a)
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2018 2:23 pm 
356 Fan
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Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2008 11:50 am
Posts: 605
Location: Whidbey Island WA.
Peter

Couple drops of oil or graphite on the key lock. Don't try to take it apart.

Send it out, that's hard to get apart and there is a 80% you will break the plastic tabs or the switch. There are several vendors that can overhaul the switch and replace the brass contacts if that's what you need.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2018 5:07 pm 
356 Fan
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Joined: Fri Mar 28, 2008 3:25 pm
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Location: Arizona
There was a guy with an aluminum 'precision oiler' at the swap meet. Looked like a ballpoint pen with a pointy tip that only dropped a single drop of oil every time. That would be the perfect tool to lube an ignition switch or door lock without making a big mess.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2018 8:22 pm 
356 Fan
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Joined: Thu Mar 23, 2017 9:00 pm
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Location: South Florida
Graphite is not recommended for locks. Graphite is a particulate and will only add more material to the gunk already within. Petroleum based products and oils become tacky with time. Also, adding lubricants, even the correct type will only work for so long. Cleaning and lubing is a good start. However, if you are experiencing any issues with the ignition, there are underlying issues that need to be addressed that are beyond lubrication. Lastly, mixing lubricants is never good.

PTFE based lubricants and 100% Silicone based lubricants resist thermal breakdown, maintain their viscosity and do not gum up. They also inhibit corrosion.

We can service your lock if you are having trouble with it.

Hope this helps,
Alicia and Dan

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2018 9:44 pm 
356 Fan

Joined: Tue Apr 15, 2008 1:09 am
Posts: 106
Location: Sydney Australia
Thank you all for your replies.
Just to make it clear Im not having troubles with the lock. I thought it would be a good idea just to clean/service the contacts as a preventitive measure.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 17, 2018 1:33 am 
356 Fan
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Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2008 11:50 am
Posts: 605
Location: Whidbey Island WA.
That is the part of cleaning the switch that get you in trouble, the back is staked in place to the pot metal portion of the switch. It's takes practice and tooling to disassemble and separate the electrical portion of the switch. If you get that far, replace the brass contacts and switching parts.

Send it out. If not you will probably end up buying a new switch, then getting the doors re keyed.

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getting pushed around in porsches since 1965


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 17, 2018 10:37 am 
356 Fan

Joined: Wed Apr 02, 2008 9:49 pm
Posts: 299
Location: Gilroy, CA
Jules, wasn't that you selling the cool oil pens? I bought one from you and have used it twice, once add oil to the distributor felt, and the other reaching way inside a housing on the wood stove blower motor, worked perfect.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 17, 2018 11:07 am 
356 Fan
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Joined: Tue Mar 25, 2008 5:50 pm
Posts: 2396
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
The ignition switch on my cab would sometimes not engage until I retreated it slightly from full turn. I figured the contacts were worn out so I sent it to Dick Weiss. We were both surprised to learn that the contacts were fine, they were just slobbered with too much grease. A good cleaning and testing and it was sent back good to go.

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'65 C coupe
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2001 996 C4
1998 Boxster
1967 Karmann Ghia Convertible
1966 Ducati Cafe Racer
1963 Beetle


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