A crankshaft pully

[Ned Hamlin]

Guys,
My '58 Speedster started slinging oil all over the engine compartment, and investigation revealed that it was coming from behind the crankshaft pully. I got the pully off and removed the seal, but I discovered that the pully had chipped off in the area of the woodruff keyway. It turns out that it's an "inexpensive" pully, so I ordered a new OEM Porsche one from our friendly vendor at considerable cost. My question is, does the A engine have both the spring washer under the pully bolt, and the washer in behind the seal? I have a parts catalog for B & C, but I have not yet gotten one for the A, and my catalog shows two washers.
Any advice on this would be extremely helpful.
Thanks.

[Ron LaDow]

Ned, my '56 1500 (three-piece) had the wavy washer and the oil slinger (that's the flat one inside).
Oh, I should add that I cannot swear it was original when I did the rebop in '69.

[Dick Weiss]

Yes Ned, The so-called sealing washer should be there, but it's also an 'oil slinger' to help the oil to exit back thru the 3rd piece.
The OD of the early washer (or shim) was 57mm (just under 2-1/4"), but it almost covered the return hole and the correct ID was changed to 54mm (2-1/8"). Then there's the OD of the pulley hub; If it's slightly scored &/or pitted, it must be refinished so the seal
won't leak. Speedi-sleeve is available, but I refinish the hub w/my special tool grinder concentric to the bore (.005" removed) is still w/in
the seal's ID range. Cracked hubs can be rebuilt by machining the hub to receive a full length sleeve (shrink fitted) and refinished to
size--I've done several when the early 4-hole pulleys were discontinued w/the 2-hole pulley; Now they're available again at $$$.

Dick

[Ned Hamlin]

Thanks very much for the confirmation guys.

[Albert Tiedemann]

Yes Ned, The so-called sealing washer should be there, but it's also an 'oil slinger' to help the oil to exit back thru the 3rd piece.
The OD of the early washer (or shim) was 57mm (just under 2-1/4"), but it almost covered the return hole and the correct ID was changed to 54mm (2-1/8"). Then there's the OD of the pulley hub; If it's slightly scored &/or pitted, it must be refinished so the seal
won't leak. Speedi-sleeve is available, but I refinish the hub w/my special tool grinder concentric to the bore (.005" removed) is still w/in
the seal's ID range. Cracked hubs can be rebuilt by machining the hub to receive a full length sleeve (shrink fitted) and refinished to
size--I've done several when the early 4-hole pulleys were discontinued w/the 2-hole pulley; Now they're available again at $$$.

Dick

Dick:

I have repaired the sealing surface in both of the ways that you have described with success as well. Is .005" removed to be interpreted as total removed? Also, what are the limits of the sealing diameter for the seal. I have not been able to find that info "searching" and real catalogs are almost a thing of the past. Or phrased another way, what would you postulate the minimum finishing diameter for this sealing surface be? This would fall into the class of tribal knowledge like the non specified value searched for in the Factory literature of the torque to be applied to the fastener that holds the pulley on. For the latter, I have used 45 lb-ft.

Use of the Speedie sleeve [also a bit pricey] should be cautioned as the one that fits can wind up just a tad long. The anomaly that can arise at the installation task can be dealt with. Experienced engine builders have assuredly figured out what to do.

[Dick Weiss]

HI Ab,

The flywheel hub has the OEM diameter between 59,90mm (2.358") to 60,10 (2.366") and can be refinished down to
59,70mm (2.350"). So, that means it can be ground about 0,18mm (,007") I use the same amount on the pulley hub,
but in either case, it's usually less.

Speedi-sleeves are really too slick for the seal to break-in; Information from seal mfg.'s Bearings. Inc. catalog w/my former machine
tool employer in making high RPM spindles and shafts are refinishing the ground surface between 10 to 20 RMS--that can also be done w/a 220/350 grit emery cloth (swept away from the lip) so the seal lip will break-in producing its labyrinth to the surface.
I still use the black or blue OEM seal(s) altho they're now more expensive (from Porsche) than the Viton seal--unless the owner decides.

Dick See you @ Hershey next month; Hope the weather clears out!

[Ron LaDow]

HI Ab,
--that can also be done w/a 220/350 grit emery cloth (swept away from the lip) so the seal lip will break-in producing its labyrinth to the surface.
Dick See you @ Hershey next month; Hope the weather clears out!

Dick, it seems you're providing a sort of micro 'Archimedes Screw' sealing surface to both 'seat' the seal lip and direct any partial leakage back in?
Seal fitting can be a bear; on the DFVs I was told and then found out the truth of the matter: If the crank had any lube on the sealing surface, it would spout oil. Yes, it was true; the seal running surface on the crank must be bone-dry.

[Dick Weiss]

Ron,

It's been a practice for my 50+ years of getting a seal 'life' to prevent leaks. As mentioned, I've helped a couple of owners who had the Speedi-Sleeve installed (not by me) and they still had leaks due to either a long-time break-in, or not @ all. Also, adding the Speedi-Sleeve will increase the shaft's OD which may increase friction, wearing the seal's lip from heat-rubbing, and eventually leak.

Finally, installing the F/wheel and pulley seat to the engine case, the face should protrude form the bore's edge about a minimum 1,0mm
which keeps the lip on the hub diameter--especially on the pulley, unless the hub is extended full length; The short length wasn't good!
Of course, a distorted seal installation (w/a mallot/hammer) will definitely leak; I even found a seal which had its lip spring missing!!!

Dick