The Official 356Talk Forum

Hello Everyone,
I'm staring a basket case (of rust) a 1960 356 coupe. I have done a few muscle cars in bad shape but nothing in comparison to this. I have a few books on this vehicle "Restored by Hand" and " " but I'm going to ask for some other opinions anyway. I'm going to have to replace the floor front and rear along with the front bulkhead. the front inner fenders look bad and the front battery box area is going to have to be replaced as well. I have built a cage around the car to try and hold it all straight. Any pointers are very much welcome along with any answers to my bulleted questions.
Thank you!
1. Who is the best vender for replacement sheet metal.
2. Remove the floor piece by piece or all at once with the front bulkhead.
3. best place I can find instructions on replacing door lock posts.
4. Sell the 356 and go back to fixing late 60’s Camaros!
Thanks Again!

It's all here, go get a cup of coffee....
http://www.abcgt.com/forum/14-356-Resto ... jects.html

Where is the project located?

Hello John,
Right now its in Eastern Idaho

Lex, consider Restoration Design http://restoration-design.com for all your metal parts. This is a family business - led by Mike deJonge - dedicated to getting it done right.

No affiliation, but a very satisfied customer.

Jeff

Lex What part of Idaho do you live in. There are 356 fans in Eastern Idaho. I am in north part of the state

The worse thing you can do is start hacking out all the rust and then end up with a puzzle with pieces missing. Not matter how good the replacement panels are they will have to be massage to fit.
When I did my B coupe, I had to remove the entire nose plus one of the front fenders and of course the whole battery box. I tried to leave as much of it as possible to use as a frame of reference and build the new box and nose around those lines. I then went on to the next section and cut out what needed to be cut and moved on.
These unibody cars are a PITA to do for that reason.

Thanks everyone for your input, it all looks to be spot on! So I'm back home again and the wife says fix the Porsche or she's calling the wrecking yard!
Ice decided to have it dustless blasted and there us considerable rust on the floor pan, inner fender wells, damage and rust in battery box area, and fire wall above the center tunnel.
I'm scared as all heck to cut the nose of this thing but I think it is the best thing to do before blasting. I own the Restored by Hand book, but I'm still worried. Do you guys think I'm on the right track?
Can you tell from the vin # if the car is a super 90 and how do you tell if it has a factory sunroof? Thanks for any info and I will get to posting some pics soon.

The chassis number will not tell you what engine it had, nor if it had a sunroof. You would need to get the Kardex or COA.

No more CoAs from Porsche.

Go back to Camaros, not mocking you at all. This is a project for a seasoned professional. That said, if time and money are not a consideration go at it. The car is not worth having a professional shop fix. Again, that is unless it is a car you have always had to have. Then money and tine are of no concern.

………………………………………...Ask me, Jim.

Several years ago, my brother-in-law gave me his '60 S90 Coupe. His since '64, but when he turned 80 with a bad back, it became mine to deal with. Rusty, worn-out, but a family member for over 50 years. There really was no choice, and more money and time was spent on Lucretia than any '60 S90 Coupe will ever be worth. Except to us. The time with my friends working on her, the beautiful result... priceless. So what's the story with your car, Lex?

Lex
i have restored 356's ,911's and camaro's . i started out restoring on porsches then did a camaro.. i am sure you know a 356 is nothing like a camaro or any other american car . There is no room for error with the 356's . on a difficulty scale of 1-10 a full off the body camaro is a 1.5 and a 356 needing a batters box and closing panels rockers are an 11. roll in torsion tube and tunnel work and door jams your up to a 15. (floors are easy) im not trying to discourage anyone, because anyone with welding skills and patience can do it . as long as you take your time and you are prepared to be frustrated. restoring a 356 is like an iceberg what you see when you start a restoration is only the tip.
This forum has a great wealth of knowledge start a restoration thread post pictures and ask questions. The 356 is a fantastic little car, looking forward to following your progress .

Regards Ned
55 continental Cab

thanks for taking the time and money to save a piece of porsche history

Thanks everyone for your education and information. As far as history goes, the car actually belongs to a family friend that might as well be family. As I understand the story behind it, the car was shipped over here in the mid 60s by the owner from Germany when he took a job in Nevada. It was a daily driver and garaged when he passed in the 80s. It then sat in storage till it was brought to Idaho in 1992. The family started to do some repairs (disassembly) then brought it to me in boxes. The body and doors appear to be in fair condition. There is some rust in the door pillars strike plate area and the rear side window supports. Other than that it has little body filler, dents or rust. But the underneath is as described. Our family friend wants me to take it on as a project so as far as money for parts go, not my dime however, I do believe in doing good work for the family and the car. So I guess its decision time.....refurbish or recycle! Ha!

I'm sure the second time around would be much less but I reckon I spent almost 200 hours replacing floors, longs, floor ledges, front toe area, front struts, patching lower closing panels plus some other minor areas, priming and painting floors, new carpet,etc. I spent a bundle on wire, gas, grinding and cutting consumables, paint, primer, undercoating, etc. The money for the replacement metal is a small part of the equation.