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Left rear wheel is making a high pitched noise upon fast rotation and a dragging sound at slow rotation. What is it? Can I fix it?

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/t19h7tgbfqhv ... g6kIa?dl=0

TimDevetski wrote:Left rear wheel is making a high pitched noise upon fast rotation and a dragging sound at slow rotation. What is it? Can I fix it?

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/t19h7tgbfqhv ... g6kIa?dl=0

Pull the drum off, bet there is a spring rubbing on the drum.

or a e-brake clip that got loose...

Or a star wheel adjustment spring rubbing on the drum or broken off.

Doesn’t look like anything is out of place — at least to me — does that mean it is the wheel bearing? As soon as I took off the drum, it started leaking oil. Does that mean anything, other than that I also need to replace the seals?

Could it have been a pebble or other tiny debris? Rubbing causes shiny spots though...unless it was for a very short amount of time. Look at where the OD of the drum is near the OD of the backing plate, sometimes they rub.

I think you only need to replace the small O-ring. Seal looks dry. Pull the spacer and pry out the O-ring. If the metal washer behind the O-ring is the wrong type and "squished", you will have to pull the bearing cap to replace the washer. If the washer is OK, replace the O-ring and get that drum back on and tightened as soon as possible; the O-ring will leak until you have clamped it with the drum.

On the backing plates are metal pads where the brake shoes rub that need to be greased. Are they?

Mike

Tim,

Surprised no one mentioned this earlier , but when you remove the axle nut & brake drum, you remove the "squeeze" on the small O-ring which will allow oil from the tube to pass and run out of the axle tube !! I always raise the axle under the shock mount such that the axle end is slightly elevated relative to the tube's trans end before removing the drum.
If you study the sectional drawing on pg. R63 of the B/C shop manual it will become completely clear as to the why's and wherefore's.

Tim, a while ago I had a slight weep through the small drain hole in the LR drum, and when I removed it, I replaced the outer o-ring as Vic suggested. I raised the axle to as close as possible to vertical to do the job (Larry) and when I replaced all the shoes, I used a little Bendix blue ceramic grease between the shoes and the backing plate (Mike). Leak stopped and no noises. I also found the cause of an annoying scraping noise - the star adjuster tension spring was twisted and rubbing (above).

Maybe I am wrong (not uncommon) but the inner parts of your brake seem very damp? Even the drum surface. Is that because of the oil leak from the outer o-ring?

I replaced the large and small O rings, as well as the washer and shims. I did not replace the main seal, since it looked dry. I tried to follow the instructions that came with the seal kit from Stoddard. But I am such a novice, time will tell whether I did it right. I used the TorqueDude to get enough torque on the axle nut, and topped up the trans with gear box oil.

When I was putting everything back together, I noticed that the wheel would catch or hang up in one part of the rotation, so I backed off the star adjusters until it was free. I may need to tighten them down a bit more, but the parking brake works. I haven’t tried to drive the car yet—that may have to wait until next weekend—since I can’t afford to get stuck somewhere and miss work waiting for a tow.

Separately, I found out that before my wheel started squeaking my sister had taken the car for a spin in a parking lot with the parking brake on. Could that have taken the brakes out of adjustment and started the wheel squeaking on rotation? Could it have caused other damage? Fingers crossed that I didn’t cause any other problems in trying to review.

Tim there are several good threads on adjusting up the brake shoes via the star wheels. This shows the 'Manual' approach I have used except I don't back off quite as far as they suggest. It is good to do it again after a run. Others may have slightly different views.

There is a trick a very wise mechanic taught me. When you roll the large "o" ring over the bearing it twists and that can cause a leak. After the "o"ring is in place take a pick and tease the "o" ring until it is in it's natural untwisted state.

Curt

Cosworth DFV engines have 8 gaskets; the exhaust ports. All else are metal/metal (sealant) or O-rings. A lot of O-rings.
You learn pretty quickly to 'roll them backwards' and then release them as they seat. Right, Jon?
Alan Klingen once tried to show me how to 'roll' the inside shift linkage boot in place; I never got that.

I’m confident/resigned to the fact that mine will leak. I just hope it stops when I push the brakes. Test this weekend. PS, thanks for all of the comments. I’ve got a lot to learn.