Gasket sealent on oilstrainer gasket and lugnuts

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Lars Hvidsteen
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Gasket sealent on oilstrainer gasket and lugnuts

#1 Post by Lars Hvidsteen »

I have a very hard time to get the aera with the oilstrainer/drain plug tight. Can I use a gasket sealant on the on the 2 gasket and treads
for the lugnuts?


what do you use?

Thanks

Lars
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Mervyn Hyde
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Re: Gasket sealent on oilstrainer gasket and lugnuts

#2 Post by Mervyn Hyde »

Other are far more experienced than me Lars, but make sure the plate itself is truly flat and then with new brass washers was well on the nuts. I have used a small amount off sealant on the nuts on occasion.
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Re: Gasket sealent on oilstrainer gasket and lugnuts

#3 Post by C J Murray »

It is difficult to keep that area dry. Try Hylomar, then maybe Yamabond, last resort is a very high grade silicon sealer. Hylomar is great because there is no clean-up required at the next oil change. Yamabond can be cleaned with carb cleaner but it is a bit of work. I never use any silicon sealer near where oil is pumped/circulated so that nothing gets blocked by excess pieces that might come loose but the high end stuff doesn't tear easily and if you apply it without excess it is very safe. It is hard to clean though.

If you get the sump plate totally dry you will be a hero of us all.
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Re: Gasket sealent on oilstrainer gasket and lugnuts

#4 Post by Jeffrey Leeds »

+ 1 Hylomar (and note that there are several variations of Hylomar for various special purposes, but the Blue is pretty universal and should take care of your issue)

Added by edit: Clean the plate with brake clean and allow it to dry (doesn't take long) before re-assembling with the hylomar.
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Re: Gasket sealent on oilstrainer gasket and lugnuts

#5 Post by Lars Hvidsteen »

Is it the blue Hylomar and how do you use it? do you put in on the whole surface of both gaskets and onto the 10 threds?


thanks

Lars
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Re: Gasket sealent on oilstrainer gasket and lugnuts

#6 Post by Ashley James »

Hylomar is WW2 technology and useless compared to the best of today’s efforts.

My favourite is Loctite 5699 Grey which is impervious to water and oil and claims to seal a 1mm gap! Never tried that, but it is extremely effective and not expensive. Obviously it is one of a million different silicone adhesives.

Google for the Loctite range for details of their different flange sealers.

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Re: Gasket sealent on oilstrainer gasket and lugnuts

#7 Post by Jeffrey Leeds »

Las, a thin "smear" on both sides of the gasket is all you need. It won't hurt to put a bit on the threads as well, but likely it will get there when your tighten the nuts anyway. The good thing about the Hylomar is that it will separate when you want to remove the gasket, and the gasket can be reused (it you keep it clean after removal) and it will reset when you tighten it back up.

Jeff

Added by edit: Yes, it is the Blue Hylomar.
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Re: Gasket sealent on oilstrainer gasket and lugnuts

#8 Post by Wes Bender »

A somewhat more expensive fix, although pretty much permanent, would be to use the machined aluminum sump plate sold by Precision Matters. They don't flex or warp.

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Re: Gasket sealent on oilstrainer gasket and lugnuts

#9 Post by Jim Liberty »

Hi, I believe Curt Dansby is making rubber gaskets for the sump. Take a 1/2" flat punch, and hit the holes in the plate, not too hard, just get them flat. The 2 - rubber seals do not leak. You will need NO sealant.
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Re: Gasket sealent on oilstrainer gasket and lugnuts

#10 Post by David Jones »

Not sure why you would consider any sealant on the lug nuts. Just keep them clean. I have only ever used a small squirt of penetrating oil if I have one with tight threads then a wire brush to clean them.
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Re: Gasket sealent on oilstrainer gasket and lugnuts

#11 Post by Jim Hohensee »

Most sumps seem to leak because the nuts have been over tightened and the plate is raised around each hole. Straightening by hammering and then hand smoothing on a flat surface with sandpaper will usually work. Also check to see that the rivet is tight. Even though it is not original, I like to use nylock nuts which I think Lars is referring to as "lug nuts". It always seems as though after a few days and heat cycles that you can easily get another 1/2 turn on the nuts.

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Re: Gasket sealent on oilstrainer gasket and lugnuts

#12 Post by Greg Bryan »

Wes Bender wrote:A somewhat more expensive fix, although pretty much permanent, would be to use the machined aluminum sump plate sold by Precision Matters. They don't flex or warp.

(Not affiliated with PM. Just a satisfied user.)
I agree - no leaks or seepage since installing said plate ...
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Re: Gasket sealent on oilstrainer gasket and lugnuts

#13 Post by Steve Proctor »

I installed Ron's trick PreMat aluminum sump plate with the trick new magnetic drain plug. Only after I installed, I looked at the instructions (hey, I'm a guy) and noted that they provide the required exposed length of the studs included in the kit and the admonition to Locktite the studs in place. I had not used the Locktite and had adjusted the length of the studs while I tightened the nuts by using the provided allen wrench, carefully ensuring that the same number of threads were exposed below the washer / nut. That worked, but I soon noticed oil was leaking down the studs with drops from the ends of the studs, not from the case / strainer / cover interface. Lesson learned on my part and regardless of whether using the stock plate or the Pre-Mat option, I would highly recommend using the Locktite on those stud threads and will do so at the next oil change.
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Re: Gasket sealent on oilstrainer gasket and lugnuts

#14 Post by Jeffrey Leeds »

Good advice Steve.
And you have plenty of company (like me) who learned this the same way you did.

Jeff
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Re: Gasket sealent on oilstrainer gasket and lugnuts

#15 Post by Ron LaDow »

Steve Proctor wrote:[...]I had not used the Locktite and had adjusted the length of the studs while I tightened the nuts by using the provided allen wrench, carefully ensuring that the same number of threads were exposed below the washer / nut. That worked, but I soon noticed oil was leaking down the studs with drops from the ends of the studs, not from the case / strainer / cover interface.[...]
Steve, muy amusing...
Anyhow, all threads (except pipe threads and stud-fit threads) have a helical path on the side opposite the tight side of the mating M/F threads and the oil will find its way out that way. Hence the loctite. The nylock nuts won't stop it as the nylon does not deform sufficiently to fill the entire thread depth and the oil would leak around the washer even if it did. No gasket or sealant will keep the oil from leaking that way, not to mention leakage around that rivet which is no longer fully set.
Yes, those threads were stud-fitting threads 'way back in the stone age; they're not anymore.
And thanks for the mention, guys.
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