Rear torsion bar cover plates/Euro heater

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Stephen Powless
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Joined: Tue Apr 01, 2008 3:02 pm

Rear torsion bar cover plates/Euro heater

#1 Post by Stephen Powless »

On to the rear as I prepare to install my restored calipers. While everything is apart, I've powder painted all dust shields
and assorted/related parts including the torsion bar cover plates. Seven bolts were removed intact. The driver side lower rear bolt was seized and broke off in spite of liberal penetrating oil and vibration. I drilled out the bolt and the "easy out" broke off, eliminating any additional drilling. I have the Euro heater and figured that if I could remove the air gate, I could drill a hole in the chassis opposite the stubborn bolt and beat the easy out out from the deep side. It took 4 or 5 days of beating with a cold chisel and mallet to get the part to toggle and ultimately off the chassis fitting. The car is on jack stands so everything is more difficult. The drills I have are too long to get the right angle of attack to make a hole. My question for the group is; The cover plate doesn't appear to be under much stress holding the new bushing over the end of the torsion bar. Are three bolts enough? If not, anyone have another work around? I've restored the air gate mechanisms to function with the new cable but the car has a weird articulated metal tube in place of the factory style connecting hoses (60 mm opening at one end, 65 mm at the other end). Stoddard does not have a source for the factory tubes. Anyone know of a source for a better replacement for the connecting hoses (see the September/October 356 Registry article on the Euro Heat System)?

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Martin Benade
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Re: Rear torsion bar cover plates/Euro heater

#2 Post by Martin Benade »

One of my lower bolts has been broken off for a long time. I have been meaning to fix it and will, but there is no sign of trouble from it. It's just not proper, though.
Cleveland Ohio
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Stephen Powless
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Re: Rear torsion bar cover plates/Euro heater

#3 Post by Stephen Powless »

I feel the same way. It's got to be right. I used to track the car but no longer. For leisurely drives, not much of a load that I can tell. I could be wrong, hence
my post.

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Phil Planck
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Re: Rear torsion bar cover plates/Euro heater

#4 Post by Phil Planck »

Stephen

If you have a Dremel with a cutoff disc or air grinder with such disc you should be able to cut the drill bit shorter to possibly go in straight.
Phil Planck

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Ron LaDow
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Re: Rear torsion bar cover plates/Euro heater

#5 Post by Ron LaDow »

First, I'm gonna suggest a stickee regarding "EZ Outs". I have never had one work at all, let alone EZ(ly), nor have I heard of one doing so. Whoever started selling those things is probably laughing all the way to the bank.
DO NOT EVER TRY TO USE AN EZ-OUT FOR ANYTHING OTHER THAN A GARBAGE CAN FILLER!
Now, pace Phil, there are Dremel tools that will do the job. Try a carbide bit first; some "EZ OUTS" are not at a case-hardened state. If that doesn't do it, try the little pointed grinding bits that will take forever, but will do it.
And tell everyone you know to NEVER buy or use an EZ Out!
Ron LaDow
www.precisionmatters.biz

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Jay Broemmel
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Re: Rear torsion bar cover plates/Euro heater

#6 Post by Jay Broemmel »

The old style of EZ out, like the one on the right, does not work very well. There is a new generation of them that are much better. I use them at my shop all the time and I have about a 75% success rate. They use a combination of a left-handed drillbit and a traditional style of corkscrew easy out. They are quite short, and when used with a right angle drill they can get into some very tight spots. Like any tool, you must follow the directions for them to work properly. Be sure to soak in lots of penetrating oil and follow the directions to the letter. On new applications the left-hand drilll bit will often spin the broken bow out by itself. On older, corroded things like our cars, more force and oil is necessary.
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David Jones
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Re: Rear torsion bar cover plates/Euro heater

#7 Post by David Jones »

I had the same issue when repairing my 64C. I had at least two bolts break off and two of the anchor nuts just tore out of the housing. The two that tore out were on one side but as I was replacing that sheet metal on both sides it was of no consequence. I repaired them by drilling out a 17mm ATF x 10mm nut and welding it on to another nut and then grinding both down until it looked close to the original. I then bolted it up to the cover plate and bolted the cover plate in place using the anchor nuts left in the plate. I then tack welded those made up nuts in place so as to be sure they were correctly located. I then removed the cover plate and went over the nuts welding them securely in place. I am sure that I now have the cover plate located as securely as the factory did.
If I had known I would live this long I would have pushed the envelope a little harder.
Cymru am byth
David Jones #9715

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