Oil pan torque
- Charles H Jacobus
- 356 Fan
- Posts: 493
- Joined: Wed May 28, 2014 5:02 pm
- Location: Dallas, TX
Oil pan torque
I'm about to change my oil for the first time since I've owned the car. Is there a torque for the pan gasket nuts or is it just hand tight?
Thanks
ChuckJ
Thanks
ChuckJ
Current:
2012 Silver 991
1995 Midnight blue 993
1965 Red 356C
Past:
Fond memories of 14 others (including a '63 Normal and a 61 S90)
2012 Silver 991
1995 Midnight blue 993
1965 Red 356C
Past:
Fond memories of 14 others (including a '63 Normal and a 61 S90)
-
- 356 Fan
- Posts: 4184
- Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 12:54 am
Re: Oil pan torque
Chuck,
Hand torque is sufficient--just DON'T use a 3/8" drive ratchet wrench; Use 1/4" drive and snug up the proper washers and nuts.
Also, make sure the plate surface is flat and you can add a little 'smear' of sealant on its gasket.
Dick
Hand torque is sufficient--just DON'T use a 3/8" drive ratchet wrench; Use 1/4" drive and snug up the proper washers and nuts.
Also, make sure the plate surface is flat and you can add a little 'smear' of sealant on its gasket.
Dick
- Charles H Jacobus
- 356 Fan
- Posts: 493
- Joined: Wed May 28, 2014 5:02 pm
- Location: Dallas, TX
Re: Oil pan torque
Thanks, Dick. What kind of sealant do you use?
ChuckJ
ChuckJ
Current:
2012 Silver 991
1995 Midnight blue 993
1965 Red 356C
Past:
Fond memories of 14 others (including a '63 Normal and a 61 S90)
2012 Silver 991
1995 Midnight blue 993
1965 Red 356C
Past:
Fond memories of 14 others (including a '63 Normal and a 61 S90)
- Sean M Rooks
- 356 Fan
- Posts: 492
- Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2014 8:00 pm
- Tag: '64 C Coupe
- Location: Richmond, VA
Re: Oil pan torque
I just did mine, snugged the nuts up to 7 ft lbs and did the gasket smear as well. I don't think I used the right stuff - used Permatex Gear Oil Gasket Maker but it seems to have stopped the small leaks I had without it.
- Greg Bryan
- 356 Fan
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Re: Oil pan torque
Ron LaDow posted this general torque spec chart in another thread recently
Of course, that's if everything is in good condition. Since the pan is removed and replace often, the studs can be in bad shape, they can get whacked by bottoming out, and those that have gone before you may have overtightened the studs. Many times the stud will come out because the nut is too tight on the threads. Or the stud can break, then it's a bigger job to get it out. Also, the aluminum threads in the case can strip out and then an insert or helicoil has to be put in. A simple oil change can turn into an all day ordeal.
The sump plate, as pointed out above, is often (or always) times warped at each and every stud hole. I have recently started putting on the machined aluminum sump plate that Ron and others sell. You have to change all the studs to longer ones, but the two flat surfaces coming together will eliminate any oil leaks from that area. They are a very nice upgrade.
You have gotten good advice above from the posters. If you are not very experienced and have not developed the feel for tightening small bolts/studs, a small inch/pound torque wrench is a good idea.Of course, that's if everything is in good condition. Since the pan is removed and replace often, the studs can be in bad shape, they can get whacked by bottoming out, and those that have gone before you may have overtightened the studs. Many times the stud will come out because the nut is too tight on the threads. Or the stud can break, then it's a bigger job to get it out. Also, the aluminum threads in the case can strip out and then an insert or helicoil has to be put in. A simple oil change can turn into an all day ordeal.
The sump plate, as pointed out above, is often (or always) times warped at each and every stud hole. I have recently started putting on the machined aluminum sump plate that Ron and others sell. You have to change all the studs to longer ones, but the two flat surfaces coming together will eliminate any oil leaks from that area. They are a very nice upgrade.
Greg Bryan
- DonCichocki
- 356 Fan
- Posts: 522
- Joined: Thu Aug 22, 2013 4:29 pm
- Location: Lafayette, NJ
Re: Oil pan torque
Harry Pellow suggested 90 in/lbs tightened progressively, works for me.
- Tom Keating
- 356 Fan
- Posts: 381
- Joined: Wed Mar 26, 2008 3:13 pm
- Location: Jacksonville,Florida
Re: Oil pan torque
That's 90 inch pounds as stated, not foot pounds. Do not make a big mistake. I had an in/lb torque wrench for doing chevy oil pan stuff. Tom
Tom Keating
1964 356C Sunroof
1964 356C Sunroof
- Harold Singh
- 356 Fan
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- Joined: Sat Sep 27, 2014 10:43 am
- Tag: Cooling with air
- Location: Richmond, VA
Re: Oil pan torque
7.5 ft lbs?DonCichocki wrote:Harry Pellow suggested 90 in/lbs tightened progressively, works for me.
Harold
In the garage:
1964 356C Irish Green
1995 993 GP White
In the garage:
1964 356C Irish Green
1995 993 GP White
- Harold Singh
- 356 Fan
- Posts: 483
- Joined: Sat Sep 27, 2014 10:43 am
- Tag: Cooling with air
- Location: Richmond, VA
Re: Oil pan torque
Wasn’t there a Pellow spec book for some of these? I’d like a list for specs that were not clearly defined by Porsche. Does that contain all of those?
Harold
In the garage:
1964 356C Irish Green
1995 993 GP White
In the garage:
1964 356C Irish Green
1995 993 GP White
- Mark Sabbann
- 356 Fan
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- Joined: Wed Mar 26, 2008 8:21 am
- Location: Stillwater, MN
Re: Oil pan torque
I've also found that blue Loctite on the studs into the case minimizes oil seepage along the stud threads coming out of the oil reservoir, and going to (the correct) straight nuts with washers instead of Nyloc nuts is preferred. I have replaced several sets of Nyloc nuts either installed by previous owners or by myself and that also helped minimize oil seepage.
Mark Sabbann
1964 SC Coupe 'Essy'
1965 C Coupe 'The Yellow Delicious'
1964 SC Coupe 'Essy'
1965 C Coupe 'The Yellow Delicious'