Fluid Leak

[Wes Bender]

Eric, I failed to include a new seal (#17 in your parts diagram). That may also need to be replaced.
The cover (#18) is what holds everything together. It will be fairly clear to you when you take it all apart.

[Wes Bender]

In Mike Robbins instructions, you may not need to replace the bearing, so you might want to stop when you reach that point.

[Doug McDonnell]

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=25762

[Wes Bender]

From Vic's post of Feb 2011 (Doug's link above), here is Vic's method:

"If you buy the C o-rings from Stoddard, you will notice they are appreciable larger than the ones listed for the drum-brake cars. They are also a bit more costly.
My method is to install the hardened washer and small o-ring, then pull the axle and bearing out of the housing about 1/4". Install the large, correct, o-ring.
Position the bearing cover in place, install the bolts. Have your ratchet-wrench handy. Then quickly push the bearing cover and bearing into place. While holding it in position, tighten the bolts. This has worked for me 99.999% of the time. If you drop the o-ring, you will notice a funny feel to the tightening sequence. Looking into the cover, you will then see a piece of o-ring hanging there; nicely sliced off. If the bearing is tight in the cover; sometimes that happens; then sequential tightening of the bolts to push the cover down, will work."

One thing to watch for if you use Vic's method of pulling the axle and bearing out 1/4" or so, DON'T PULL IT OUT MUCH MORE THAN THAT. If you do, you run the risk of dropping the fulcrum plates out and then you get to do a transmission disassembly to fix them.

[Phil Planck]

Another tip is to buy 4 studs same size as the cover bolts. Put those in to use as alignment aid. Then when cover is in place, remove one stud at a time and install the bolt.

[Vic Skirmants]

Another trick is to use a drum brake spacer to help center the seal.

[Eric McKinley]

Thanks to everyone who gave an input into fixing this problem.

I will get the parts ordered and see how I get on.

I'll come back with the results.

[Eric McKinley]

I started the rear down process today on the rear drivers side axle.

I removed the brake caliper and the disc, found quite a bit of transmission fluid in the disc and around the lower ebrake pad.

I removed the split pin and the axle nut, not looking forward to taking the ebrake apart, it was only a few months back since I rebuilt it and got it set correctly.
However I accept that these are the challenges of owning one of these unique cars.

I have now come across my first problem.

I have been reading the workshop and it mentions a tool to remove the part i have labelled A in the picture.

Is there any other way to get this off without this tool.

Many Thanks.

[Vic Skirmants]

The hub should just pull right off. Or if difficult, a standard puller will work. That's all I have ever needed.

[Eric McKinley]

Vic, the hub appears to be on tight.

I purchased an inexpensive gear puller and within a few minutes had the hub off.

A small amount of transmission fluid was expelled, I'll raise the axle a little before removing the rest, as Wes has suggested.

[Eric McKinley]

Can anyone offer advise on the preferred method of applying 400 ft lbs pressure to the axle nut during the tightening process.

Many Thanks.

[Wes Bender]

I'm sure someone will recommend one of the torque amplifier devices, but they are fairly expensive. I use a piece of steel that is strong enough that it won't bend and long enough to make good contact with the floor. Drill two holes in it to fit over a couple of the hub wheel studs. Fasten it with washers and lug nuts. Then use the 3/4" drive socket and wrench that you use for torquing the flywheel nut. If you keep the wrench handle reasonably level and use a piece of pipe as a home-made torque amplifier, you can torque the axle nut to 400 ft lbs quite easily.

100 lbs @ 4 feet, 50 lbs @ 8 feet, whatever metric equivalents you want to try for distances from the center.

[David Jones]

I went a step further on the axle lock bar. I sunk 2x19mm sockets in to a square tube spaced to fit two wheel studs with lug nuts on. Very steady and safe. With my 36mm x 3/4" drive socket and a 4 ft schedule 40 pipe it was no effort to loosen or torque the axle nut. After I bought my torquemeister it became redundant but when I go on a trip I try to remember to throw it in the trunk.

[WilliamVaughan]

Re tightening the nut. Put the tires back on and sit them on the garage floor. If your parking brake is adjusted properly, then set your parking brake. It will hold. Apply the 3/4 inch drive socket, 9 inch extension shaft, tee handle wrench and tee handle extender pipe to the nut. Stand on a bathroom scale and use a tape measure and calculator to compute foot pounds.

[Eric McKinley]

Thank you once again for the replies.

That looks like a very good way to achieve a result without causing any damage to the studs.

Can I ask what diameter of square tube you used and the length of the bar.

In relation to the to torque of the axle nut, it seems to be a bit of guess work.

Would I be along the correct lines to get a 3/4 drive, 36mm socket and connect it to a breaker bar which is 4 ft in length, basically what you have described.

This is where it gets a bit blurry, do I simply push down at the far end of the breaker bar until I cannot go any further and the cotter pin lines up?

The good thing about torque wrenches is they give an audible click when the correct level is achieved, however this is not the case with a breaker bar, your strength, weight must play a part in this.

The down side is they are very expensive for something that when done correctly should not see the light of day for a long time.