Porsche 356

[Alex Goodhart]

Had a complete

[Mike Wilson]

Alex, if you Google " adjusting 356 Porsche shift linkage", you'll find old threads on adjusting the linkage. You'll also need to check the guide ring. Mine had literally disintegrated over time causing a rattle and sloppy shift action.

Mike

[Alex Goodhart]

Thanks

[Mike Wilson]

Hmmm...something's not right. You should have to push down and up-left to engage reverse. I'm not familiar with the Precision shift coupler. I had an original on my car which I changed bushings in but then went with the Stromsky shift coupler. No adjustments on that or an original other than fore aft on the shift pipe.

Check the spring tension and orientation and the nylon bushing on the shifter.



Mike

[Thomas Sottile]

advice, take it to an 356 expert you can drive yourself crazy if you do not know how to do it. where are you located?

[Alex Goodhart]

Took the car

[Vic Skirmants]

Just push to left against spring and up.

What spring; if this is a function of the short shift kit, then there is no need to push down?

[Alex Goodhart]

Hi

[Tim Herman]

Reverse "lockout" goes away with installation of short shift
kit. Everything is raised except the original parts on chassis such as the
reverse lockout tab so the bottom of shifter is now above it
just enough that it can no longer engage.

Shifting may get a bit better but a bit is about it,
learn to live with stiff shift. I am used to it now
and rather enjoy that shorter throw.!

Above is assumption you are speaking of the Willhoit Restorations type.

[Edwin Ek]

Stirring this back to life.

To shorten the shift throw, what prevents just using Willhoit's shortened lever and leaving everything else the same? If that can be done, then the reverse lockout and transmission lock would work.

It is an obvious thought, so there must be more to it.

[Mike Wilson]

I think it has something to do with the geometry of the short shifter and the adapter plate to the shift pipe.

[Dick Weiss]

I've never added a short-shift kit to a B/C assembly, but the stop plate would need a weld bead for the tab on the lever to prevent
getting into reverse accidently. Then the "push-down" would work for reverse. I don't know how much weld would be needed.

An 'A' short-shift change would need a bracket to lower the switch in the tunnel; The B/C switch is on the transmission = $$$.

[Ron LaDow]

On the T6 shift tower, the reverse lock-out plate is fastened to the tower and is not at all affected with the installation of the Wilhoit short-shift kit. The lower 'arm' of the (1st-class lever) is extended and a spacer moves the tower upward by the same amount.
As Cliff pointed out several years ago, the effort increases, and it does so by something close to the same ratio as the reduction in travel; 15%? Not quite, since the geometry in that cup is improved.
I've had one on my C for nearly 10 years and like it a lot. If I'd mod anything, it would be to bend the lever toward the rear, but...

[Edwin Ek]

Perhaps I am a knucklehead (almost certainly true), but I still don't understand the impediment.

Are Mike and Ron saying that since you shorten the lever, an adapter plate is needed to provide thickness, so that you maintain geometry and don't change the location of the shift knob?

[Mike Wilson]

I think the best person to answer the question is John W. but he's out of country.

Mike