A brake issue

[jay yost]

I have a 56 A Cab with the stock drum system. Last week, I decided to change the brake fluid and the right front brake was binding after the fluid change. I removed the drum and cleaned everything and backed both adjusters off as far as they would go. I drove it a bit and when I used the brakes, the front end pulled to the left. Then, I removed the left front drum and cleaned and adjusted everything. Now, the left front drum binds to the point of smoking, while I seem to have less 'braking power' and it brakes in a straight line.
What's going on? Should I look at the master cylinder?
Thanks for anything.
Jay

[Doug McDonnell]

If you haven't changed the rubber brake hoses in years I would start there.

[Jim Nelson]

If you haven't changed the rubber brake hoses in years I would start there.

+1
Then the wheel cylinders/adjustment/master...

[jay yost]

I just ordered a set of brake lines from Stoddard.
Thanks Guys!
Jay

[David Jones]

Jay, if you have not had the luck to do this job before then be aware that you should soak the joints at the interface between hard lines and soft lines with a penetrant for a day or two or you could twist off the metal lines. Remove the lock strips that hold the rubber lines in place which will allow you to hold the two connections more securely. They have to come off anyway to remove the rubber lines. You may have to resort to heat, as in a propane torch to loosen the connections. I have at times removed the whole length of line from the master cylinder to work on the bench to disassemble. if all else fails just buy a new length of pre made up line from your local auto parts store. Take you old line with you to be sure of getting as close to the original length as you can with correct end fittings.
Also order new copper sealing washers with the new lines unless you can manage to remove them without disturbing the banjo fittings on the front brake cylinders. Have fun and where are you? You may need local help and expertise and there may be someone close by who can help. Add your location to your profile.

[jay yost]

That's good advice, David.
I read your post a couple of times and decided it wasn't a bad idea to just order new hard lines, too. For some reason, I remember tearing up a few hard lines in an effort to separate them from the soft lines. Even if I don't use them now, I will have them 'in stock'.
I hadn't thought about new copper sealing washers, so I ordered them, too.
I really appreciate the help.
Thanks Much!
Jay

[John Brooks]

And flare nut wrenches on the line fittings, not open ended wrenches, or you will replace the lines.

[Martin Benade]

After the new hoses if it still acts the same I would look at the wheel cylinders. It is possible that a brake piston is binding on rust in the bore, I have had that happen.

[jay yost]

Guys,
I received new brake hoses in the mail yesterday and spent some time under my car last night. I got all the hoses changed out and bled the brakes.
The situation with the front brakes is unchanged. The drums are still binding to the point that I can't move them by hand. I even tried moving the drums with the bleeder valves open (to reduce pressure) and they wouldn't move.
Additionally, why would this issue come up after a simple brake fluid change?
Any suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks Much!
Jay

[David Jones]

Like Martin said. Check the brake slave cylinders. If they look bad inside buy new ones. It is cheaper than trying to refurb the old ones.

[jay yost]

OK. I will check the wheel cylinders tonight.
Thanks Much!
Jay