torque multiplier tool

[Dick Weiss]

I've had a Torque Meister for years, but use it rarely since I have a 3/4" x 4-ft. bar on a specially made
36mm socket (by my former employer 55-years ago) and just pull the parking brake, block the wheel
while on the floor, and w/my 180lbs. at 2+ ft. or so, loosen--and tighten the axle nut or fly-wheel bolt.

[Steve Kram]

Woudn't this work?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Latest-Rage-00 ... SwVmNdOhuD

[Dan Macdonald]

Steve, the holes need to be enlarged for the Porsche studs.

[Steve Kram]

Yes, I should have said that, but it would seem to be an easy solution.

[Mark Sabbann]

Mark. You do not need to secure it. Just apply the torque at the opposite point to the rotation vector and the rotation force cancels out.

Is a flywheel lock required?

[Paul Lima]

The flywheel lock makes it MUCH easier. With the lock and a torquemeister or equivalent the job of torquing or removing the flywheel gland bolt becomes an easy chore. WAY better than the 5 ft breaker bar.

[David Jones]

A flywheel lock makes it a little easier to control.

[Mark Sabbann]

Thanks Paul and David -

[Mark Sabbann]

What is the recommendation for replacing or not replacing the gland nut when replacing the flywheel end oil seal? With regard to the Viton seal from Stoddard and the one that needs to have one lip trimmed, how much of that lip needs to be removed? The shop manual recommends checking the end play on the crankshaft. What are the chances that the measurement will be out of spec? (I know, kind of a wide open question)

[Greg Bryan]

A new gland nut is cheap insurance although many have been reused in the past, including by me. SCAT has a bulletproof one for less than $50.
I bought an already trimmed oil seal from Klasse 356 and others might have them too. It's tough to do a nice job of trimming them with a razor.
End play will increase with wear, although the wear limit is 0.012" if memory serves. New spec target is 0.005-0.007'

[Dave Wildrick]

With regard to the Viton seal from Stoddard and the one that needs to have one lip trimmed, how much of that lip needs to be removed?

[Here's a post on this from 2006:
Date: Sun, 02 Apr 2006 11:50:38 -0700
From: The Stable <stable356@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [356Talk] Flywheel seal

You need to cut away the outer dust lip, it will rub hard against the
back of the flywheel and burn. Use a new razor, I hold the razor still
and rotate the the seal under it on a flat surface. You don't need to
remove all of the seal lip but at least 2/3 of it.

Alan]

FlywhlSealTrim.jpg (219.91 KiB) Viewed 1957 times

[Mark Sabbann]

You need to cut away the outer dust lip,

Thanks Dave, I got a photo from Stoddard that agrees with yours. Their description to cut away the "upper lip" is misleading unless the seal is face down as you (and Stoddard) show. I used a 1/2" dia 120 grit sanding drum in my Dremel tool and it worked like a charm. No chance to mis-cut, either the seal or my finger.