torque multiplier tool

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Jason Tell · #1 Post by **Jason Tell** » Sun Jul 23, 2017 11:09 am

Anyone in the Portland, Oregon area with a torque multiplier tool I can borrow? I am a new 356B owner and have encountered the infamous rear axle nut. Thanks.

Tom Wavrin · #2 Post by **Tom Wavrin** » Mon Jul 24, 2017 2:08 pm

Hello Jason,
You can use a breaker bar with correct socket and an additional length of pipe (3 ft with 1 foot overlap on bar handle) to loosen the axle nut.
Put emergency brake on and block the wheel/tire so it doesn't spin. I've got a torque meister tool but don't use it for this application.
Tom, Medford

Jason Tell · #3 Post by **Jason Tell** » Mon Jul 24, 2017 5:22 pm

Tom,

Thanks for replying. I've read several examples of breaker bars breaking so wanted to see if there is another way. Ill give it a try.

Jason

Fred Otjen · #4 Post by **Fred Otjen** » Mon Jul 24, 2017 5:45 pm

Jason, I've used Tom's breaker bar technique many times, it works. Also the right auto shop will air tool the (36mm) nut lose for you - no charge. I've got the breaker bar stuff , also the torque tool (but lost the gear part you'd need). PM me if you like, I'm in Portland.

Harlan Halsey · #5 Post by **Harlan Halsey** » Mon Jul 24, 2017 6:00 pm

When I torqued the end off the 1/2" breaker bar I bought a 3/4" set up. I put the socket on the axle nut, a 9" extension on the socket, my hydraulic floor jack under the end of the extension and line up the extension with the axle using the jack. (This way I put a pure torque on the nut.) Then use a thick wall pipe as a cheater, slid all the way on and marked at 2'. My 200 lbs at 2' gives 400 lb/ft. when reassembling. The 3/4" breaker bar is also good for the crankshaft gland nut.

Dave Wildrick · #6 Post by **Dave Wildrick** » Mon Jul 24, 2017 6:24 pm

Years ago, I broke the adjustable tooth off a borrowed Craftsman 16-inch "crescent wrench", by stupidly facing it the wrong way on the axle nut and using a long cheater pipe. After that, back when axle nuts were cheaper, I used a 4 foot pipe wrench with no cheater necessary.
I have also previously snapped the end off a 1/2 inch breaker bar on the axle nut.
now use a 3/4 inch one for the flywheel--as my Torque-Meister socket doesn't fit deep enough on the gland nut (bolt) to work well. I have Ab Tiedemann's sector gear, which he modified to fit the disc brake wheel hole pattern; so, the Torque-Meister does work on the axle nut now.

David Jones · #7 Post by **David Jones** » Mon Jul 24, 2017 7:08 pm

Before I acquired my torquemeister I made up a locking tool out of a length of 1.5" square tube and sunk two 19mm sockets in to it at the right distance to place on two of the wheel bolts and hold the drum while I leant on the cheater bar. As I only weighed 160# soaking wet with sweat I quickly figured out how to loosen the axle nut. You do not lean on it. In fact you throw your weight on it and get someone with a big hammer to hit the socket as you apply torque. Kind of like a manual impact tool. If anyone wants the locking tool I made up they are welcome to it for the cost of shipping and a small donation to cover my labor to pack it and get it to the USPS location. Trust me nowadays it is no small effort to do even that small task sad to say.
I will post a picture of the bar if anyone cares to see it. This is only good for drum brake cars as it was originally made to use on the Formula Vee race car rear drums.

Jason Tell · #8 Post by **Jason Tell** » Mon Jul 24, 2017 9:26 pm

Thanks for all of the comments! Fred: I'll PM you this weekend if I need to borrow your breaker bar.

Greg Bryan · #9 Post by **Greg Bryan** » Mon Jul 24, 2017 11:27 pm

I bought the tool for about $80 in June and have used it 5 times already - flywheels and VW rear axle nuts. It's a great tool. I have the cheater bars and huge torque wrench, but I will always use this tool now - it just so easy to use. the only thing I did to mine was increase the chamfer on the outer edge of the flywheel side of the tool so that it fits more snugly on the Porsche flywheel bolt.
I haven't tried it on the C axle nut and I have a feeling the spacing for the smaller bolt pattern is set up for VW 4 bolt hubs and not the C 5 bolt.

Dave Wildrick · #10 Post by **Dave Wildrick** » Tue Jul 25, 2017 11:58 am

Greg Bryan wrote:I bought the tool for about $80 in June and have used it 5 times already - flywheels and VW rear axle nuts. It's a great tool. I have the cheater bars and huge torque wrench, but I will always use this tool now - it just so easy to use. the only thing I did to mine was increase the chamfer on the outer edge of the flywheel side of the tool so that it fits more snugly on the Porsche flywheel bolt.
I haven't tried it on the C axle nut and I have a feeling the spacing for the smaller bolt pattern is set up for VW 4 bolt hubs and not the C 5 bolt.

Four years ago, Ab Tiedemann posted his modified sector gear for sale as follows: "Torque Meister Adapter for disc & drum brake cars [requires 3 prepaid orders to initiate special manufacture]" I don't recall the price, but I think he can be reached at afterwerke@comcast.net

It has 2 sets of holes, one for VW/drum brake 356s (upper set), and one for the C 5-bolt disc brake pattern (lower set).

David Jones · #11 Post by **David Jones** » Tue Jul 25, 2017 12:48 pm

I cut a VW flywheel in half then drilled holes to align with the "C" hub. Cheap way to go as VW flywheels are ten a penny.

John Weyand · #12 Post by **John Weyand** » Wed Jul 26, 2017 8:08 am

If it's only removal that you need, this tool works well. Place it on the axle nut, insert the breaker bar, and whack it (in the correct direction) with a small sledge.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewt ... ?p=8315234

BUT, I wouldn't use their method of tightening (torque-meister and Tiedemann's adapter for my C).

George Walling · #13 Post by **George Walling** » Wed Jul 26, 2017 9:01 am

Jason, You might check and see if one of the parts stores or a tool rental store has a 3/4 drive 600 ft lb torq wrench you can rent. I use a snap-on 600 ft lb torq wrench to do my fly wheel nut and axel nut. Before I bought the torq wrench why I used the 3/4 breaker bar and cheater pipe method and it works well just make sure you support the socket end so it doesn't slip off the nut will ruin your day if you hit the car a jack stand under the extension works well to help from this happening. Good Luck.

Fred Otjen · #14 Post by **Fred Otjen** » Wed Jul 26, 2017 11:47 am

Jason and all, if I could find the drum removal sector gear it might help. So if someone has a spare sector gear please PM me. Here's all I have now:

Jason Tell · #15 Post by **Jason Tell** » Wed Jul 26, 2017 12:23 pm

I appreciate all the helpful comments! I was able to get both rear axle nuts off with an impact wrench. It's an air gun that is supposed to have max torque of 585 foot/pounds--although it was a $40 Harbor Freight purchase so I'm not sure how accurate it. It took a lot of PB Blaster and about 20 minutes of work to get them off.

Fred: I would be very interested in borrowing your torque tool if someone out there can supply the missing link. I would feel more comfortable putting the axle nuts back on with that tool and a torque wrench than other options that require more guesswork or brute force.

The impact wrench does have 5 settings so in theory I could put the axle nuts back on and get close to the 360-370 foot/pounds torque called for in the service manual.

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