Stock location for battery isolation switch

[Erik Thomas]

I am in the throes of getting my 1960 356B ready for some mild track time, vintage racing with the VSCCA. Thus, I need to add a battery isolation switch. I do not want to willy nilly just drill a hole in the side of the car.

I would like to know where it was installed on the original GT and Racing 356 of the circa 1960 period. I have in hand a BOSCH switch, same as the original optional type. I am guessing this was installed somewhere on the bulkhead. Then, I will rig up a cable and be able to turn the switch off from a vent window.

I have had a look on the website, and see no definitive answer or images of the original location. Anyone know about this?

Thanks, Erik

[Jeffrey Leeds]

Hi Erik, I got my SCCA National License in 1961, and I don't recall any requirement for a battery kill switch at that time, nor for several years following. They did come into use later in the '60's but at the time it was more for the convince of the car owner / mechanic than a safety requirement then.

If I am wrong someone will quickly correct me, I'm sure, but I held my license for more than 18 years, owning and driving several different cars in Production classes, and they all used the ignition key as the isolation switch.

Jeff




Edit: Spelling correction

[Mike Smith]

It is not where it was fitted in the 60`s
It is where it is specified by the National or International Organisational Racing Body - Now

How about bring your profile Up-to-date and telling us where you are in the world - you may get more response?

[Erik Thomas]

Mike :

The VSCCA is an east coast USA club. I am not really interested in being "up to date" at all. I want to know where the optional battery disconnect was located in 1960. The Various "vintage" clubs require the switch to be on the RH side , on the cowl. I am not going to do that, I am going to run a cable from the switch, in its original location, to be accessible where the rules require it.

Thanks,

Erik

[Martin Benade]

Before doing it you might want to find out how flexible they are about rule interpretation. I would guess for safety items, not flexible at all.

[mario musto]

If you've removed your windshield wipers you can place a battery cutoff switch in the driver side shaft hole. With the right switch you should be able to use the stock opening without alteration.

[Erik Thomas]

Well now, time to get to drilling holes and cutting metal.

Seems there is no consensus what so ever on this subject. Either the old timers who know about this are dead and gone, or there never was a "stock location" So I am free to play designer now and get on with it.

Thus, I am going to mount the Bosch battery disconnect switch on an aluminium bracket located to the right of the fuel tap lever. I am going to use the positive side of the battery, as I can then run the wire to the ignition power off the switch which will be right next to the fuse box. Shutting off the battery switch will also shut off the ignition.

I will run a Bowden cable up to the vent window, where it can be pulled by a course marshall if needed to turn of the electric. I prefer to be able to reach it by my own hands while belted in, rather than have it outside the car and unreachable. The "switch" cable will be marked with an "E" label, which meets the rules for racing.

[Erik Thomas]

Here is a picture of the installed Bosch battery switch. I figured out that if you pull the positive battery lead aft out of the tube that takes it forward to the battery, then run it under the passenger foot board it will reach this location perfectly. The battery wires pass though holes in the tunnel side that are already there. The new positive lead goes forward to the battery. ( about 5 feet of 2 gage cable ) I drilled two 6mm holes to mount the aluminium switch plinth to the body. That was it for invasive modification. I can reach this switch with no trouble. The red wires shown go to the fuse box, and are also activated when the switch is on.

[Phil Planck]

Pretty slick Erik. Thanks for posting results.

[Martin Benade]

I looked up the rules for your group, it says the cutoff switch must be mounted externally. Have you asked them if yours will be external enough for their liking? You don't want to get sent home without playing. I agree that you have mounted it nicely.

[Erik Thomas]

Martin: I got sent home from a race at Thompson last June for no kill switch. I was supposed to be able to run in "preservation" but they cancelled that group as not enough turn out. I will send a picture of the cable that goes outside the car once I get it installed. Plan is to go up outside the "A" pillar and leave a loop sticking up about 50mm. Pulling the loop shuts off the battery and the coil. The VSCCA is OK with a small switch, which shuts off the ignition and possibly fuel pump. I wanted a proper battery switch that I could reach while belted in. The cable outside the car makes it possible for a corner worker to reach it. The key here is to have the proper "E" label out there.

[David Jones]

Erik, the only circuit you need to interrupt is the ignition/starter circuit and a simple 2 pole switch can do this. On the F Vee I ran one 12 gauge wire (which was overkill) from the battery to the kill switch and thence to the ignition paralleled to the starter button so I could spin the engine over without ignition for test purposes. On a 356 I would suggest mounting the switch in the engine cover with a bracket and perhaps on a spare engine cover so you can switch between street and track use if you don't like the idea of driving around looking like a boy racer on the street.
As one usually drives to the grid there is normally no need to touch the kill switch once you leave the paddock and you cannot get to the grid without the kill switch being on unless your crew pushes you there so the need for the driver to operate the kill switch from the cockpit is not a requirement. It is there for emergency use by track workers.
I was a driver, a corner worker and a tech inspector for many years and all I had to do usually was to turn on ignition and the the rain light and then turn off the kill switch and if the rain light went out then we assumed the circuit was good. Let's face it, it is a safety issue and if you circumvent the rules you are playing with your own life.