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PostPosted: Thu Jun 22, 2017 7:25 pm 
356 Fan

Joined: Sat Sep 27, 2014 3:09 pm
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When you set the crank endplay..

1. Do you have to torque the gland nut to the 300 plus ft lb?

2. When setting the end play, do you have to use a crank gasket each time you set the endpay.... I am assuming that you do not have to use the gasket when setting the endplay.. only for the final installation.

3 Like VW do you have to use three shims? Or can you use any amount?

Thanks in advance
Mike


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 22, 2017 8:02 pm 
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Mike Murray wrote:
When you set the crank endplay..
1. Do you have to torque the gland nut to the 300 plus ft lb?

No. That torque is intended to stretch the bolt some slight amount to keep it from unwinding, but you'll still want it tight, say 100#/ft.

Mike Murray wrote:
2. When setting the end play, do you have to use a crank gasket each time you set the endpay.... I am assuming that you do not have to use the gasket when setting the endplay.. only for the final installation.

Assuming this is the cast-iron gasket between the crank end and the socket on the flywheel, use the old one to set the dim, fit the new one on final assembly.

Mike Murray wrote:
3 Like VW do you have to use three shims? Or can you use any amount?

The factory says ONE of the right size. Some have been 'sinning' as the good ones are getting scarce in certain sizes.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 22, 2017 8:06 pm 
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Ron
Thanks so much. All makes sense but one thought...

But one question, wont the new metal gasket compress a little?

Mike


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 22, 2017 11:40 pm 
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Mike,
The manual is down the hall, but as I recall the spec is ~.005".
That 'gasket' probably mics somehwere close to .002". It is 'crushed' by a pretty course thread and has enough surface area (and internal density) to avoid any real change in thickness. So I'd bet you can't measure the crush.
But your question also has to do with which side of the tolerance does a builder or tuner aim at?
The crank is gonna get looser; aim for the tight side.
The plugs are gonna open up; start at the minimum.
The valves are gonna get looser, set to the tight side.
The points are gonna wear toward tight; aim for loose when you set 'em.
And so forth.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 23, 2017 3:24 am 
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you might want to get a new gland nut too, for safety... and don't forget to cut the extra lip on the flywheel seal...

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 23, 2017 12:08 pm 
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other considerations if you have an abnormal reading make sure the socket in the flywheel is correct depth. it maybe best to investigate the fits initially with the crank out of the case to ensure that the bearing does not bottom on the radius also the bearing has to fit the case properly. calculate the predicated end play by measuring the components. also it works out better if you measure the end play of the assembly before installing the cylinders. a big mistake is to restore the endplay to spec on a worn out motor since the #1 bearing may be moving in the case.
j

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 23, 2017 1:55 pm 
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Sorry for being so uninformed, but this is my first 356 rebuild, have done many British....but...what does "to cut the extra lip on the flywheel seal " mean?

Mike


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 23, 2017 5:25 pm 
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Mike Murray wrote:
Sorry for being so uninformed, but this is my first 356 rebuild, have done many British....but...what does "to cut the extra lip on the flywheel seal " mean?

Mike


Read this discussion, especially p. 2 of it: http://porsche356registry.org/356talk/1/10788.html
Here's a pic of the trimming they are talking about:
Attachment:
FlywhlSealTrim.jpg
FlywhlSealTrim.jpg [ 219.91 KiB | Viewed 688 times ]


If you don't cut this lip off, it will rub and burn, causing seal failure.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2018 8:03 pm 
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The manual says to use only one shim. What if it never gets in the range?

Can two shims be used?

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2018 9:09 pm 
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One shim is best. What size do you need?

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 24, 2018 12:53 am 
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Bill Owen wrote:
The manual says to use only one shim. What if it never gets in the range?
Can two shims be used?

Bill-
If I recall when setting the crankshaft endplay in my C engine some time ago, I used two shims of different thickness to achieve the proper end play. (Different thickness shims are available.)
- Wil

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 24, 2018 3:16 am 
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Joined: Tue Mar 25, 2008 9:28 pm
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Shim thicknesses are currently available from 0,80 thru 1,05. Prices vary from $22 to $27 each.
BTW it didn't bother the late Harry Pellow to use a 36 hp shim to make up the proper end play -- but it did take him five pages to talk about it!

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