Removing the 'ledge' on the piston and leaving the chamber as is will only make that 'peripheral chamber' larger AND weaken the top ring land, so that's a non-starter. All the others are possible options and you get to choose which to pursue after you figure out what you want the engine to do and the realtive costs of the alternatives. Neither are easy to answer.Adam Willis wrote:Ron, [...] which then begs the question, can you not just mill the piston at the 22* or 30* or whatever angle the combustion chamber is so that "flat" area is removed and you have a continual slop on the dome...ahhhh, what if the piston is a flat top piston...must do the chamber.
So to take that to the logical conclusion, is the correct "fix" or method when you buy new or different pistons to have the chamber cut? Or can you just have the chamber cut to the 22* or 30* irrespective of the piston?
Adam
These engines are now very old collections of parts of various origin, now suffering under various fixes, and in various conditions. Yes, you can bolt the parts together and they will (probably) work. For a while.
This sentiment is nowhere near universal even here, but given the value of the parts (especially if it is an original engine) and the variables mentioned above, I now question whether it is a good idea for a hobbyist to rebuild an engine. *Unless* you are a *very* skilled hobbyist with good knowledge of IC engines in general, or willing to devote quite a bit of time studying what works and why, and therefore what doesn't; IOWs, willing to become that highly-skilled, knowledgeable hobbyist.
I hope you'll forgive me if I'm wrong, but from your questions, you seem not very familiar with 616 engine parts and not really familiar IC engine fundamentals. "Rolling your own" is only cheaper in the long run if you are willing to learn enough to substitute your knowledge for that which you are buying if you had the engine done by a pro.
