Oil Cool er Leak ?

[Peter Burger]

Doug - the 'instruction' is a nice find. Thanks
Also thanks to everyone who chimed in.

My leak is quite noticeable, so if it is a crack in the case it should be fairly easy to spot. Nevertheless I will do a dye-pen test to make sure. I also plan to install the AL cooler. I spoke with a friend about the removal this evening and got some valuable pointers. I also will read some Harry Pellow writing - after that I will dive in.

I will update you once I have the engine out, which may take a few weeks due to work ......and life.

Peter

[Peter Burger]

Just as a follow up.
I removed the engine from the car, which worked quite well - thanks for all the previous suggestions.

I then removed the fan shroud and oil cooler. A pressure test of the cooler revealed, that is has indeed a crack - see the bubbles on the second photo. To be on the safe side I also did a dye penetration test of the case and did not see any indication for a crack there.

I am quite happy with the outcome so far . The plan is to buy a aluminum cooler and install that once I have done some TLC on the outside of the engine and engine tin.

At this point I am not sure quite sure whether my push rod tubes on the left cylinder bank are leaking, or if it is just oil coming from the cooler.
I probably should replace the tubes now that the engine is out. Any suggestions?

Thanks
Peter

[Vic Skirmants]

Glad to hear you dodged the bullet!

[Ron LaDow]

Peter,
If you are using PR tube other than Precision Matters, you had better do it now. Most all require the heads to be removed.
If you are using the Pre Mat tubes, it is easier with the engine out, but certainly workable with the engine installed.

[Peter Burger]

Vic - Thanks for your sympathy

Ron - I think I will replace the tubes now with the engine is out I was only aware of the PreMat tubes and the 'standard' I did not know that there are different types of the standard - or did I misunderstand you. Can you recommend a certain type.

....and that leads me to the next question - Is there an illustrated write-up how to remove the valve train and the heads, and more importantly what to pay attention to?

Thanks guys
Peter

[Ron LaDow]

Peter,
Check Stoddard, NLA and the other known vendors (I don't know where Jacques sells his). There are several types now available. But all of those require removal of the heads.
As you might imagine, the Pre Mat parts are all I use anymore, since replacement does not require the heads to come off.
Check Vic's comment here:
viewtopic.php?f=19&t=32995

[George Walling]

Peter, I used new stock style PR tubes when my engine was rebuilt. I only had about 300 miles on it when I noticed I had a oil leak on the left side which I found to be the tubes leaking. I didn't want to pull the engine so I bought a complete set of tubes from precision matters and installed them with the engine in the car. I have put 4000 miles on the engine since then with no more leaks. I would recommend the precision matters tubes. the directions that come with them are very easy to understand and the installation was easy to accomplish. Ron is always available and a really nice guy to deal with. good luck on what every style you use.
George

[Geoff Fleming]

Often, what appears to be push rod tube leakage is actually leaking seals on the lower head bolts. Replace the old, dried seals with new O-rings and it will eliminate this problem.
Ron's push rod tubes are an excellent replacement for the originals...highly reccomended.

[Peter Burger]

Thanks guys.
A friend of mine also mentioned that it could be the seals at the pushrod tubes that leak. I think this is where I start - keeping Ron's tubes as a backup, should I still have an issue after the engine is back in the car.

[Dave Wildrick]

Thanks guys.
A friend of mine also mentioned that it could be the seals at the pushrod tubes that leak. I think this is where I start - keeping Ron's tubes as a backup, should I still have an issue after the engine is back in the car.

Get some viton or silicone seals. You don't have to pull the heads. Just remove one head bolt (nut) at a time, replace the seal and retorque; then repeat on the next one, etc.
When you are done, it's probably a good idea to retorque all the head bolts (nuts)--in the proper sequence. I did this seal replacement some years ago on my 64C coupe, with no issues.

[Geoff Fleming]

Dave,
Right you are. I've also done the same thing with no problems afterwards.

[George Walling]

Just a heads up make sure that you don't have a crack on the bellows part of the PR tube. Then new ones I used on my engine rebuild that leaked like I stated earlier was not the seals leaking but cracks in the bellow area. I have stretches PR tubes when rebuilding VW engine and never crack a tube so don't know if it was just bad run of tubes or what but didn't want to take a chance with another leak problem so went with the precision matter tubes and don't regret it. plus if a seal start leaking it is easy to replace the seals . just food for thought.
George

[Ron LaDow]

Dave and Geoff,
Peter is planning to replace the PR tube seals; see the quote in Dave's response.
Loosening the head nuts won't help.

[David Jones]

I used to reuse VW tubes all the time. Re-stretch them to the correct length and then block one end and blow hard in to them. Any leak and they were discarded but very few ever leaked. I then did the same thing with 356 engine tubes and so far had very few that leaked again. I have noticed though that the newer ones I have used seem to be less pliable that the older ones. I get the feeling they are made of less ductile metal than originals.
I figured blowing in to them was a good way to test them as the crankcase pressure is not much over atmospheric as it is open to atmosphere and if you have that much crankcase compression you have more problems than leaky pushrod tubes anyway.

[Ron LaDow]

[...]I have noticed though that the newer ones I have used seem to be less pliable that the older ones. I get the feeling they are made of less ductile metal than originals.[...]

I seem to recall something like $8/ea, way back when they were still making 616 engines and therefore there was a current market for the things. Just checked Stoddard and the 'originals' are now a bit over $18/each. Given inflation and the drop in demand, I'd say the true price is now lower than it was when I was outraged to pay $65 for a set!
But whoever is sourcing them is likely favoring price over the luxury of alloy choice, so we're getting what the forming company can buy to hit that price. Believe me, this is a daily battle for your suppliers; our vendors don't care about funny, old cars. I'm dealing with it right now regarding the next run of Pre Mat PR tubes; last week, it was the magnets for the sump plates.
BTW, if you have an old, pliable set of PR tubes and are considering reusing them, take a look in there and notice there are some 22 radial 'sumps' neatly arranged to capture and then release the swarf from the wear of all the wildly-gyrating parts in the rocker box. Have you fitted a decent filter to your engine? Do you feel lucky?