Brake shoe relining

[Mervyn Hyde]

On my '62 Coupe, the brake shoe lining is reportedly original and its pretty hard and glazed, although the pedal is firm and car stops straight and reasonably well. I have had all the drums off and they are in good condition and well within the required measurements. The wheel cylinders are all new. As I am in Australia and freight cost is a real issue for ordering a full set of new shoes from a US source, I approached a local brake shop that does drum brake relining on classic cars. The assure me that they can reline my existing 'shoes' and radius them to suit the wheel matching drums. The cost is only $50 a wheel and that seems more than reasonable for the job. They would be softer than the rather glazed originals, and that may be a good thing for the drums and the braking.

Any thoughts or experience that can be shared on this process?

[David Jones]

Merv,
Many many years ago when I had very little money and none to spare I relined my own brake shoes back when they were riveted on not bonded. Cost about 50% of the price of new shoes. No exchange shoes back then. I would think that if the shop advertises doing relined shoes then you should be OK. I would ask to see what their finished product looks like but that price also seems very reasonable.

[Martin Benade]

Instead of unknown quality new linings, if the old ones do not appear to be eating the drums, why not just deglaze them with some sandpaper, clean and adjust everything, and keep driving? What you have already is known to work and already perfectly radiused for the drums. It is doubtful you will improve them. And the shipping cost will be zero. The only thing I would inspect closely is to make sure the lining material is not rusting off the shoes.

[Mervyn Hyde]

Sounds a fun Job David. I well remember the old riveted shoes on a 48 GM car. Martin - good point. I have already sanded the existing (seemingly original shoes) and aside from the rather dangerous dust, they seem to glaze again. The front shoes seem to have more 'meat' on them than the rears, which are bit thin. I also was told by the shop that does the relining that the modern linings are softer and will throw more dust. They should also have greater friction I thought?

[Mervyn Hyde]

I pulled the front right set off this afternoon. Then cleaned and sanded them (with a serious mask, just in case). They don't look good - hard and with tiny cracks. Unless I am missing something. The grey on edges is probably my non-square, quick sanding on the first one by hand.

[Martin Benade]

I think you are right about the grey edges. I wouldn't worry about the glazed look, that is just how they look. As long as they work well I would put them back on and don't worry. I have never heard of glazed linings being a common problem on a 356.

[Mervyn Hyde]

They are old Energit shoes. From what I can find they demanded higher pedal pressures anyway.

[David Jones]

Merv, you are correct. If memory serves me right there were two choices "back in the day". Energit and Jurid, Jurid being the softer lining which was the choice for town driving. I had jurid linings on my car and after getting scary brake fade coming down the Grossglockner pass I switched to the energit lining.

[Dan George]

Had a local company reline the brakes on my '59 Cab and am very happy with the results. Make sure you ask around and assure yourself of their reputation.

[Mervyn Hyde]

Will do Dan. I think I will try to clean up the existing shoes on the front and all the moving and retaining parts and re-adjust the sprocket 'wheels' with my Hazet adjuster. Then see how that goes. I am still thinking I should get them relined, however, as they are less than the 7mm recommended. Mike Smith suggested finding an old set to get relined and keeping the Energits, as originals in storage.

[Mervyn Hyde]

Relining it will be. The existing linings are too thin at the front and although original are not effective.

The brake shop I found specialises in older cars and I was impressed with their knowledge and setup. They will reline the shoes and radius them to suit the drums. There are various options on the lining material of course. On a hardeness scale my originals are 'diamonds', about that hard and glazed smooth. Pretty useless on shiny drums, except as leg exercise.

The road options include materials that offer more 'bite' and faster wear and also some midrange compounds and even 'dustless' ceramic based lining. I figure I am not going be driving this car in 50 years and some faster wear does not worry me at all. I am fortunate in that all my drums are in very good condition.

[Al Zim]

I would pay the $50.00 per wheel to reline the shoes. A) they can put in a softer lining which will give you a better stop. B) The lining can be thicker to accommodate wear in the brake drum. C) MOST important they can arc the shoes to the drum. D) If you have brake problems your car becomes a catastrophe and maybe you too as the steering impales you in the chest. E) Porsche (the factory) offered Frodo "racing" brake shoes as an option. After you have installed the shoes press on the brake pedal lightly to set the shoes to the drum. Tighten the adjuster till the drum does not rotate and back it off 5 to 7 clicks. This adjust the brae pedal so the toe heel position of driving can be obtained and moves the stopping portion of the brake shoes to the middle. Do Not follow the instructions of the Heidi & Franny's Garage as presented in the latest Registry,
In the early 60's when I started working on cars we relined VW brake shoes (usually just one on the rear) for a dollar (labor) after they were removed. What a messy job, al zim

[Mervyn Hyde]

Thanks Al. I should have them back next week after re-lining and radiusing. I spent a lot of time many years ago lying under old cars on jacks, adjusting drum brakes. It is something you get a feel for I suspect. Now having a hoist makes it so much easier!

[Albert Tiedemann]

Merv, you are correct. If memory serves me right there were two choices "back in the day". Energit and Jurid, Jurid being the softer lining which was the choice for town driving. I had jurid linings on my car and after getting scary brake fade coming down the Grossglockner pass I switched to the energit lining.

"Frendo" was the name of another lining material that was used on relined shoes. It was a light tan color. This was 1960. It is important to use the correct lining nominal thickness, 7 mm. If drums are machine oversize, then 7.5 mm thick.

[Mervyn Hyde]

Thanks Ab. The linings I am getting are light tan and in the middle in terms of hardness. Should be softer than my present "diamonds" and also have good fade resistance. I have asked for them to be just over 7mm after radiusing.