Adjusting Solex P40-II carb when one barrel will not adjust.

[Doug McDonnell]

Assuming you don't have 5 volts at B+

[Jens Hansen]

At B+ it's 6.60V
But much lower at the coil!

[Doug McDonnell]

Check voltage at #15 on back of ignition switch. Jumper from B+ to coil may help it run well. If so then time to look for the voltage drop. Unless David tells you otherwise. He is a much better troubleshooter than I am.

[Jens Hansen]

Will have to do it tomorrow morning. Will try that tomorrow morning.
Looked at the plugs and the were wet from too much fuel. Will clean then and then try again.
Been told we are going out in 30 min

[Jens Hansen]

Checked voltage at #15 on back of ignition switch and that's the same as the coil voltage, so it's has to be something to do with the fuel.
Mixture adjustment or the carbs is the issue.
Tried to run a wire from B+ to the coil but without any improvement.

Did run at high RPM but now it will not start!

[Doug McDonnell]

Afraid not Voltage should be same as at battery 6.6 V. You need a wiring diagram.Between battery and coil you are loosing voltage somewhere. If at #15 same as coil next check is where the ignition gets it't power. Red wire at #30. Then check wire that goes from #30 to light switch.All should be same as battery voltage when things are good.

[Doug McDonnell]

Jens Wiring for coil starts at battery. Small red wire from positive terminal to fuse #3 then through fuse block to #2 From #2 to light switch then to ignition then to coil. Voltage should be same as at battery all the way. Start at Battery Positive terminal and work testing to find where your voltage drop from 6.60V to 5.05 Volts is and correct it. I will hazard a guess it will be either at Pos terminal where small wire to fuse box comes off or fuse box itself. Greg Bryan or David help me here if wrong. All I have is Greg's C color wiring diagram. (Insert shameless plug for Greg Bryan's Laminated color wiring diagrams. Everyone should have one for their model car.)

[David Jones]

Jens, I would suggest removing the carbs again as it worked fine you say when they were swapped over. It sounds as though you have a massive air leak if it will only run at high rpm. Pay particular attention to the gaskets between carb and manifold and of course the phenolic spacers. You may also have an issue with voltage as pointed out by Doug and my bet is always the red wire on the battery +ve terminal that goes to fuse 3.
Problem with Solex carbs is that it is very easy to warp the base when tightening down. Snug is good, any more and you risk warpage. Check the carb bases on the bench by running a flat file over them.
See attached picture.

[Jens Hansen]

Doug,
Thanks for the reply and the wiring diagram. I have used Joe Leoni's Electric Circuit Descriptions to look at the different circuits. I do like the one you have attached to the reply.
For the time I'm charging the battery, but as soon as it's done I'll leave it for a while and the trouble shouting.

[Doug McDonnell]

And use Hylomar on gaskets as sealant if you choose to use any. It will be blue.

[Jens Hansen]

Will get the carbs off again!

[Jens Hansen]

Can't get any Hylomar today, but first thing to do tomorrow morning.

[Dan Epperly]

Not sure if it was mentioned, but the phenolic spacers have different thicknesses, basically two. If you put a thick one and a thin on the same manifold it doesn't work well. Ask me how I know.

[Jens Hansen]

I have used the spacers there was on the carbs earlier - when it would start.
Still waiting for the battery to get fully charged.

[Norm Miller]

Jens,

Have you a cut off switch on the battery neg.
If so bypass it. Unless you are using a load test on the battery your readings quite possibly are off.
Where were you checking B+ ?
Turn the headlights on and re-check the B+ reading.

Norm