New garage lift

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Jeffrey Leeds
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Re: New garage lift

#16 Post by Jeffrey Leeds »

I use two, five foot long, 2x6 boards, one placed across the back of the pan, and the other across the front of the pan, both near the rear and front reinforced edges of the pan. The boards, in turn, rest on the front and rear arms of the lift. The boards are deformable so they don't mar the pan, and the area covered by the boards well distributes the weight.
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John Schiavone
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Re: New garage lift

#17 Post by John Schiavone »

Got mine from Greg Smith also, very pleased after about 8 years now. They recommended an installer in the New England area, and it was well worth the cost. The channel in the four posts nicely accepts a 2x4 (just under 6-feet high) that I slip into each one of the posts just for an extra bit of security.

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Jim Clement
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Re: New garage lift

#18 Post by Jim Clement »

does anyone know what the minimum ceiling height is for storing two 356's
or in my case a Boxster and one 356 ?
I think I only have 104"
 

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Vincent Vuong
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Re: New garage lift

#19 Post by Vincent Vuong »

Jim,

My garage ceiling height is 119", and I'm able to stack two 356s with 6" to spare.

Vincent

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Adam Wright
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Re: New garage lift

#20 Post by Adam Wright »

Jim Clement wrote:does anyone know what the minimum ceiling height is for storing two 356's
or in my case a Boxster and one 356 ?
I think I only have 104"
A friend of mine is able to stack a 356 and a 911 with a regular garage height of 112", but it barely barely fits. He has to put one of the cars on the lift with wheels with no tires to get the extra couple of inches he needs. This is just for winter storage, not for regular use. Apparently in the winter his wife gets to use the garage because of snow and he double stacks and in the summer she parks outside and he gets the whole garage. So I would say 112" would be the absolute minimum you could do. Before I decided to vault my garage ceiling I was going to cut a hole out for the Roadster windshield frame to go through and leave the top down, but I had a center beam that was 4 inches too low for even that crazy idea.
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Adam Wright
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Re: New garage lift

#21 Post by Adam Wright »

A couple people have asked me what the difference between "stick built" and "truss built" is. My garage was stick built so we were able to loft the ceiling by moving the horizontal supports higher, we were even able to re-use much of the existing wood. If you garage has trusses you can't do this without making all new trusses, which is very costly.
Here is a pic of the garage mid-build.
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Adam Wright
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Re: New garage lift

#22 Post by Adam Wright »

Both lifts are in, winter is here, cars are up.

Hurry up Spring!
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Al Zim
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Re: New garage lift

#23 Post by Al Zim »

I would highly recommend Worth manufacturing in Mansfield Texas. 817-473-7266 WE have been using their products for over 5 years with almost no situations. These lifts go up and down numerous times during the day. They are permanently attached to the floor. You should have at least a 4 inch thick floor. Shipping will kill you if you are not around Texas. al zim
Last edited by Al Zim on Wed Jan 03, 2018 3:09 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Charles H Jacobus
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Re: New garage lift

#24 Post by Charles H Jacobus »

I'm jealous of you guys. I have two houses and still don't have enough garages to house mine.

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Mark Sabbann
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Re: New garage lift

#25 Post by Mark Sabbann »

I was researching car lifts and ran across this website: https://www.bestbuyautoequipment.com/. No affiliation and I haven't bought from them before so I don't know how their prices compare but if nothing else, it's a good resource for looking at and comparing many brands and types of lifts.
Check out their 2-post lift https://www.bestbuyautoequipment.com/Ar ... asp?ID=288
and 4-post lift https://www.bestbuyautoequipment.com/Ar ... asp?ID=289 buying guides
and a comparison of lifts in general: https://www.bestbuyautoequipment.com/Ar ... asp?ID=256
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Erik Ohland
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Re: New garage lift

#26 Post by Erik Ohland »

My wife is offered to get me a lift for Christmas so I'm trying to figure out which one. I have a 1958 356a Speedster and don't want to damage anything by lifting it improperly. I read the post about a 2x6 across the front and back of the pan is this the best way to lift it safely without damaging it? I will be using it to work on the car mostly and not to store another car under it. my garage has a tall ceiling and room to work around the car. Thank you all in advance.

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Adam Wright
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Re: New garage lift

#27 Post by Adam Wright »

Erik Ohland wrote: Tue Dec 31, 2019 5:41 pm My wife is offered to get me a lift for Christmas so I'm trying to figure out which one. I have a 1958 356a Speedster and don't want to damage anything by lifting it improperly. I read the post about a 2x6 across the front and back of the pan is this the best way to lift it safely without damaging it? I will be using it to work on the car mostly and not to store another car under it. my garage has a tall ceiling and room to work around the car. Thank you all in advance.
If you're just looking for a lift to work on the car you might want to get a smaller lift jack.

It's a lot less permanent and you can use it wherever, at your place, your friend's place, outside if you're doing something stinky like gas. Adds some versatility.

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David Aronson
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Re: New garage lift

#28 Post by David Aronson »

I would be very surprised if 99 % of us don't have a storage problem. I too went the "stacker" method. As soon as my notchback is finished :D I plan to install a second stacker. My wife has never been able to park her car inside. I love her!
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Martin Benade
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Re: New garage lift

#29 Post by Martin Benade »

My wife also parks outside and doesn’t complain. Almost always I clear the snow off her car so she won’t have to. She’s not a car person but likes riding in the 356, and accepts that it is important to me.
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Erik Ohland
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Re: New garage lift

#30 Post by Erik Ohland »

Thank you for the quick response guys, what are the jack points to use on the car, and can I work under the car while using that type of lift Adam?

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