Stoddards Replacement cross shaft bushings

[Jacques Lefriant]

hi guys since replacement of these bushings sometimes requires the destruction of the cross shaft/fork defer the replacement as long as it performs satisfactory. Dave i will have to look at the ones i have but they seem to be steel backed like conrod bushings or replaceable bearing shells. we could go to sealed needle bearings if this was a big issue

[WilliamVaughan]

I think the gap is too small for needle rollers. Delrin AF with moly grease works. The area is large and the force is not so large.

[Dave Erickson]

hi guys since replacement of these bushings sometimes requires the destruction of the cross shaft/fork defer the replacement as long as it performs satisfactory. Dave i will have to look at the ones i have but they seem to be steel backed like conrod bushings or replaceable bearing shells. we could go to sealed needle bearings if this was a big issue

Jacques, I was wrong, they are steel. They only weigh .2 oz, while the bronze bushings from Stoddard are .3 oz, so the weight fooled me. I like teflon coated bushings for high speed applications in a clean environment, but not someplace where there is lots of side thrust and dust, like clutch dust... Those graphite plugged bronze bushings I posted a link to earlier would be a good choice.

[Dave Erickson]

Here is a photo of the original cross shaft bushings. Similar style bushings do not appear to be available anywhere, but the originals lasted a long time. This pair has over 100k miles on it, and it had about .010" wear. The replacement Stoddard's bushings are solid rather than split and do not have the dimples, which are for oil/grease retention.

Installation note for the new Stoddard's bushings: I bored the pair of Stoddard's bushings on my lathe so that they had .002-.003" of clearance on the cross shaft, then installed them in the case. These are thin wall bushings, and they compressed slightly after installation, so they are now too tight. Probably .005-.006" of clearance would have worked fine, or just plan on reaming after installation or just use Jacques' teflon coated steel bushings.

[Dave Whittick]

Any tips for removing the cross shaft from the housing? I've removed the two roll pins from the forks and soaked in penetrating fluid. I've tried heating the forks as well but still won't budge.

[Vic Skirmants]

Keep soaking and try turning the shaft to break the fork free. I usually have to use a hammer on the clutch arm; back and forth.

[Eric Wills]

If you think you are going to damage your transmission case with all the hammering, just use a cut off wheel on the shaft. That process takes all of 2 minutes. The new clutch shaft and fork is a lot cheaper than the alternative.