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Retaining Spring for air deflector plate

Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2016 6:35 pm
by Frank Swanson
Where does this retaining spring go?
Stoddards
506-06-108 Retaining Spring for air deflector plate, 2 required, fits 356 & 912. 50606108
Thanks for your response.
Frank
Tacoma WA

Retaining Spring for air deflector plate 506-06-108.jpg

Re: Retaining Spring for air deflector plate

Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2016 6:50 pm
by Vic Skirmants
There are two plates, one on each side, under the cylinders. These springs hold them in place.

Re: Retaining Spring for air deflector plate

Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2016 8:37 pm
by David Jones
Make sure you snap them on to the correct push rod tube the correct way around. Open side to the crankcase.

Re: Retaining Spring for air deflector plate

Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2016 11:43 pm
by pascal giai
These pictures show the spring in place.

Re: Retaining Spring for air deflector plate

Posted: Sat Nov 02, 2019 5:11 pm
by Nik Nikolic
Does the engine have to be out to fit in the air deflector plate and retaining spring?

Re: Retaining Spring for air deflector plate

Posted: Sat Nov 02, 2019 7:43 pm
by Don Gale
Well . . . ordinarily they go in while installing the heads and inserting the pushrod tubes. If you can't finesse them into position, you might get telescoping pushrod tubes and put them in without removing the heads. The heater box will be in the way. Easiest to remove the motor to take the J-tubes off. Important to have the deflector plates installed.

Re: Retaining Spring for air deflector plate

Posted: Sat Nov 02, 2019 8:31 pm
by Martin Benade
I think the flapper box is what is really in the way , but best to remove the engine for that. You might get the flapper boxes off but you will never reinstall them with the engine in. I believe the j-pipes can remain.

Re: Retaining Spring for air deflector plate

Posted: Sat Nov 02, 2019 9:42 pm
by Dick Weiss
The real problem may be reshaping the "eye end" to fit the collapsable pushrod tube having
a larger diameter. Otherwise, easier to add them during head installation.

Re: Retaining Spring for air deflector plate

Posted: Sat Nov 02, 2019 9:55 pm
by Ron LaDow
Martin Benade wrote:
Sat Nov 02, 2019 8:31 pm
I think the flapper box is what is really in the way , but best to remove the engine for that. You might get the flapper boxes off but you will never reinstall them with the engine in. I believe the j-pipes can remain.
Pretty sure they'll pass through the rear flapper on a diagonal after the push rods and tubes have been removed.
Assuming they do, they and the support 'springs' can be installed along with the Pre Mat Push Rod Tubes ( https://precisionmatters.biz/push-rod-tubes.php ) with the engine installed, the heads and J-tubes in place. Quite a few folks have done so; no one has called swearing at me.
Dick, that small end goes over the Pre Mat Tubes with no problem.

Re: Retaining Spring for air deflector plate

Posted: Sat Nov 02, 2019 11:06 pm
by Don Gale
Over the last couple weeks I have been studying up on "Cool Tins" or "Super Cool Tins" on air-cooled VW engines. Originally designed for Type 3 engines but can be used in Type 1 engines if they are wired in place. They replace the former lower deflector plate and supposedly contain and better flow the cooling air over the cylinders for more uniform cooling and reduced asymmetric hot spots. They don't interfere with the VW lower tin and the stock VW lower tins stay as is. Just wondering if anyone has dabbled with them or something similar on a 356/912, given that Porsche engines derived from 25 Hp VW engines. I have read pro's & con's on Samba about them, seems the Type 1 negatives were due to improper installation. They must be wired in place.

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Re: Retaining Spring for air deflector plate

Posted: Tue Nov 05, 2019 12:01 am
by Dick Weiss
I can't imagine having the springs attached w/o the deflector plates in place or vice-versa;
I don't think the defectors can be installed first, then the springs--and the J-pipe(s) gotta be
removed before the flapper boxes.

Re: Retaining Spring for air deflector plate

Posted: Tue Nov 05, 2019 12:25 am
by Martin Benade
I am actually sure Ron’s method with only the tubes out will work. The plates and clips are both rather small. I almost think I once installed them after the tubes and heads were on, years ago. A couple of minutes would prove or disprove this idea.

Re: Retaining Spring for air deflector plate

Posted: Tue Nov 05, 2019 1:26 am
by Ron LaDow
Dick Weiss wrote:
Tue Nov 05, 2019 12:01 am
I can't imagine having the springs attached w/o the deflector plates in place or vice-versa;
I don't think the defectors can be installed first, then the springs--and the J-pipe(s) gotta be
removed before the flapper boxes.
Dick,
Unless the diagonal of the rear flapper opening is too small to allow the deflector tins to be inserted, I can't see any reason the springs can't be fitted to the Pre Mat PR Tubes during installation.
Slide the deflector into place, fit the spring to #3 intake pushrod tube while it is being fitted and do the same on the other side with #2 intake pushrod tube. Yeah, you'll have to push upwards on the tube to guide it into the case, but that looks to be a hell of a lot easier than pulling the engine.
Here's the fitting instructions:
Instructions136.jpg
Instructions136.jpg (859.03 KiB) Viewed 571 times

Re: Retaining Spring for air deflector plate

Posted: Tue Nov 05, 2019 8:52 pm
by mario musto
I replaced the leaking OEM push rod tubes on my 912 using Ron's units. I don't run heater boxes on that engine so removing the old tubes and installing the Pre Mats(and deflector tins) was easy. Replacement completed with engine in car, no need to pull the heads and units don't leak.