Problem with splitting the engine case

[Jens Hansen]

I have the last 2 days tried to split the engine case! Been heating it up, cooling it down to normal temperature and then with a piece of wood and a mallet tried to split the case.
Don't dare to hit the engine too hard with a hammer or other metal things!

Have anybody an idea what I can do to split it. Been looking in all the books and searching the internet, but with no luck. The engine case is still intact. Got it on an engine stand so easy to turn the engine.

Thanks in advance

[David Jones]

Did you get the two fasteners on the rear of the case under the flywheel over the camshaft plug?
Double check for all fasteners around the case and also the 6 main case bolts.
Remove oil pump and sump plate together with filter and two gaskets.
After that unless someone used a really strong adhesive it should part. Listen for a hollow sound when you hit it on one of the flanges which tells you it is coming apart.

[Dan Epperly]

Did you get the two fasteners on the rear of the case under the flywheel over the camshaft plug?
Double check for all fasteners around the case and also the 6 main case bolts.
Remove oil pump and sump plate together with filter and two gaskets.
After that unless someone used a really strong adhesive it should part. Listen for a hollow sound when you hit it on one of the flanges which tells you it is coming apart.

The lower case nut by the flywheel is easy to overlook.

[Jens Hansen]

Just looked again to make sure they were removed! The 2 nuts were removed and so are all the nuts and bolts on the case.
Tried again with the mallet and there are not hollow sound.

[Alan Hall]

Any evidence of rust on the studs or corrosion of the case where it goes over the studs?

[cory cotherman]

case splitter

case splitter.jpg (4.85 KiB) Viewed 1232 times

[Jens Hansen]

The engine was covered in oil so I don't think that's the reason.
Like the look of the case splitter but I would like to avoid to use anything like that if possible. I don't want to damage the case.

[Jens Hansen]

The engine has been in a barn for the last 20 year, maybe more than that.
Trying to attach photos.

[David Jones]

You cannot use the oil pump case splitter on a 356 case anyway as it is on the 3rd piece and does not split.
Only thing to do is use a solvent on the split and some boiling water judiciously applied plus shocking it with a hide or rubber faced dead blow hammer around the periphery. It will eventually let go.
Try a piece of 2x4 between the studs for the 3rd piece as well.
Keep tapping on the half not bolted to the stand.

[C J Murray]

Use force without using force. Use metal scraps or wood scraps to pry against with a very large screw driver or pry bar. When using long levers you must not put much muscle into it but because you have leverage the force goes more gently from light to enough to break the grip. Later engines have a slot at the timing end to do this easily. A soft mallet blow to the bosses on the bottom can help. If you don't go musclebound you won't break anything.

[Jens Hansen]

Thanks for all the replies. I'll try again tomorrow morning. In UK it's too late to try to split the case.
Will let you know the outcome.

Regards,

Jens

[Ron LaDow]

I've got a 2# plastic headed mallet and some hardwood 'sticks'; applied per the arrows, there's never been a set of cases that didn't come apart.

thumb_IMG_0791_1024.jpg (81.62 KiB) Viewed 1160 times

Added by edit: Oops; top image, arrow aimed at wrong side.

[Geoff Fleming]

...also, remove the flywheel seal ...unless you have after the photo was taken.

[C J Murray]

...also, remove the flywheel seal ...unless you have after the photo was taken.

Good advice, they stick.

[David Baugh]

You might try moderate pressure with an expanding clamp in the sump hole, then tap all around the perimeter of the case with your dead blow plastic hammer. Maybe someone mistook JB Weld for seam sealer.

Dave