Heater cable and control rod fasteners

[Warren Chen]

After a major overhaul, the engine is finally back in the car. I took a lot of pictures along the way just so that I can remember how to put things back.

One thing I did not take picture of was the heater cable/rod and the fasteners. So, now I am a bit lost as to how things go together.

Based on other posts and the workshop manual, here is what I have figured out:
The heater cable is attached to upper end of the flapper box lever, using fastener marked B in my 2nd picture
The heater flap control rod is attached to the lower end of the lever, using fastener A.

Assuming the above is correct, here is my question:
For the life of me I can't figure out how fastener B works. Am I missing some parts of B?

[Vic Skirmants]

You are missing the outer sleeve on both "B"s.

[Doug McDonnell]

Here is what it should look like

[Doug McDonnell]

A few other helpful details for correct function: The heater cable itself has one side longer. Longer side goes to passengers side. If incorrect you will never get it together. The two heater control rods are also different drivers vs passengers side.

[Phil Planck]

Doug
Great tip, as I am just getting ready to install a new cable, and yes, they are different lengths, but close enough to not notice until my 50-50 chance of getting it wrong always seems to be 100% on the wrong side.

[Warren Chen]

Thanks Vic and Doug. I found them....in my bucket-O-nuts-n-bolts.

[Conrad Carter]

I'm new to 356's and am trying to reconnect heater to my 63 Coupe. I am trying to understand why there are 2 different fasteners. Both type fasteners appear to function the same...clamp on a round shape. The only apparent difference is the hex head on the A fastener. Would you not use the A fastener (see above) on the cable so you could tighten the fastener using 2 wrenches. The rod can be used as a wrench with fastener B since the rod would function as the 2nd wrench in tightening.
Conrad
"70 years young and still learning"

[Ron LaDow]

Conrad,
Not by any means certain it's the reason, but the ones lacking the bolt head (and counter-torquing wrench) could bend the 'wire controls' upon tightening, leading to failure. Not so on the 'rod controls'.

[Doug McDonnell]

Conrad, While Ron's explanation makes sense I doubt the engineers who specified two different fasteners will explain their reasoning. That said I am sure they had a reason and it is worth doing it as the factory did. I'm no engineer but do it as the factory did to "Keep The Faith."

[Jim Clement]

I just finished mine.. was a bit of a puzzle for sure.
the one different in each set holds the end of the heater cable wire, the other two in the set hold each end of the heater rod. I think it is that way as one is designed to have some flex, the other not as much. I had to add a slightly larger washer to make mine work.. obviously I did not get new blade things (from Precision Matters)
one thing I wish i had done is prior to putting the engine back in the car is to make sure the heater control mechanism is perpendicular to the engine..
when it is out .. easy to bend them correct, with all the sheet metal on and working from the bottom it is much harder.
the way the bolts work is that they squeeze the rod into the bolt.. you will see when you install them.. it all does work

[Dick Weiss]

The 'B' version/clamp is used especially on the left flapper box due to interference w/a hex head. when closed.
Also may be used on the heat control valve arm(s) so they'll clear the round body(s).

[Vic Skirmants]

The 'B' version/clamp is used especially on the left flapper box due to interference w/a hex head. when closed.
Also may be used on the heat control valve arm(s) so they'll clear the round body(s).

Correct, Dick. It's clearance not flex.

[Eric McKinley]

I am in the process of putting the heater rods onto the car.

I need a little help in reassuring me that I have completed this task correctly.

I used the part A above at the heater cans and the part B at the lower part of the flapper boxes.

I used some pictures I have gathered over the years from other members cars as an aid to help me with this.

One rod is slightly longer than the other, I have read the above and have placed this on the passenger side, however am I correct in saying that the bent end of the rod goes at the flapper box end.

Another question is with the orientation of the rod, I have kept both the same with the rod uppermost and the bent part facing directly down, I hope this makes sense, I have included a picture which shows one of the rods.

I may have this completely wrong.

With regards to the heater cables I appear to be missing a part, I ordered what I needed to complete this job a number of years back, but now i come to do it I appear to be short.

Am I correct in saying I need 2 part A for the cables, I went through my old parts and found one original, this was still attached to the flapper box when I got it, and had about an inch of rod connected, it must have proved difficult to disconnect, a grinder was the easier option. So if I am correct I need one of these.

Finally when connecting the heater cables, what is the best position to have the handle in at the gearshift, forward or to the rear, and also the flapper boxes, open or closed.

Hopefully this makes sense and i am not of target.

[Doug McDonnell]

Longer rod with 2 bends on passenger's side. You need 2 of B above for heater cable attaching to top of pivot on double flapper box. You need 4 of A above for connecting rod to lower hole of pivot and to heater control box. John Lenewauer's underside photo helps but note where fuel filter is!! That is drivers side.

[Ron LaDow]

[...]Finally when connecting the heater cables, what is the best position to have the handle in at the gearshift, forward or to the rear, and also the flapper boxes, open or closed.[...]

The flappers should be held open by the springs in the 'air channels'; start in that condition and the lever all the way forward. Pulling back closes the flappers and (via that rod) opens the valves in the cans.
Adjust to get the flappers as closed as you can for best heat delivery.