I finally have my '64 356 Coupe

[Ashley James]

For many many years Konis outlasted everything else and were regarded as the best. For example they were fitted to Formula 1 and just about any competition cars for decades and back in the seventies they'd outlast most others on motorbikes many times over. I've no idea if that is still the case, but I'm sure they're very good.

One of the primary advantages is that they are adjustable and when new are usually best on the softest setting, which is good because invariably the nearside of the road has all the bumps and potholes and so the shocks on this side wear out before the others. With Konis you can adjust them up so they're the same as the off side again and at least double their life.

This is much better than with my Boxster where I had to buy four new ones at 58,000.

My coupling seems almost as new, but I'll have another look just in case.

[Martin Benade]

Adjusting normal non-racing Konis for wear is a halfway solution as jounce is adjustable but the rebound direction is not. I believe this is true of the 356 versions as well.

[Ashley James]

I had them on a TR3A and adjusting the NSF worked really on a rather crude car. It was controllable on bumpy roads at three figure speeds. I'll use them when and if I replace the ones on the little 356, more because I know what I'm getting than anything else. It's very bumpy and twisty round here so suspension issues are quickly highlighted.

FWIW a chum with a 964 has just fitted a set of Konis with springs to produce a ride on a par with my 987 which might have Boges.

[Ashley James]

The clock is in and working and it's feels good to have made a start. Just need my steering box back now.

I've order a new red trim set from Lakewell.com in Belgium, luckily just before the pound fell off a cliff. Porsche Nappa front seats too.

[Ashley James]

I bought my car from the chap who imported from I think Florida and now I discover that the only key I have is for the ignition. Therefore I need one for the door lock and maybe another for the transmission lock. Is there anyway I can find the correct number and or order keys?

[Ashley James]

Apologies, should have searched before posting. I've found an explanation.

[Dick Weiss]

I just rebuilt the steering box on a '59A RHD cp--the pitman arm was still stuck on the shaft, but adjusting it to the right angle will allow removal--make sure you remember it when replacing the box unless you want to add it after the box is installed, but MAKE SURE you match the marks on the arm's spline to the shaft's spline! (Not easily seen below--better on the bench)
BTW, there aren't any new replacement ZF roller pegs in the USA or Europe per Stoddard; Aftermarket pegs were not made correct, so I refinished the one for the box. Any used pegs available?

Dick

[Ron LaDow]

I refinished the one for the box. Any used pegs available? Dick

Front-engined Ferraris used a ~1.25-sized version of the 356 ZF box. My Lusso had a rough spot in the steering travel and opening the box showed there was spalling on the peg. There were used boxes available (people do crash Ferraris), but no one was selling with a guarantee.
I simply stoned the spall to ease the edges all around and got another 20K miles on it without problems before it was sold.

[Ashley James]

In the end mine had to have the worm reground and a new peg made along with all the bearings and seals, so quite a job. Should have it next Tuesday, can't wait to start driving it in earnest.

[John Clarke]

Ashley, Who did your steering box work? May need some work on Our's.
Thanks Jay

[Ashley James]

ICS in Birmingham. They seem very able and roared with laughter when I pointed out that having ex Burman personnel wasn't something to tell anybody about.

[Harold Singh]

Great advice on centering the box and the coupler issue is scary. I've had a good looking rubber coupler that was falling apart once I got it off! Check that first and if it doesn't look brand new or have an invoice, just replace it.

The steering of the 356 should be smooth and light. After examining the coupling, ( don't want it to go to pieces as you drive!), look at the steering box. With the wheels in the straight-ahead position you will either have a metal clip with an arrow type pointer surrounding the steering shaft just as it enters the 'box', or there will be a short indent mark cut into the shaft. The latter is sometimes hard to see until the area is wire-brushed. When either of the two indicators are lined up with the seam of the steering box, there should be one and a half turns of the wheel left and the same to the right. If not, the steering wheel may have been incorrectly placed on the shaft. The ZF steering box used on the later A and all B & C models has an exact center point and is adjusted from this point. If the steering wheel is not centered, remove it and place it back on so the two upper spokes are on the horizontal. There is an adjustment screw atop the box...loosen the 19mm lock nut and back off the screw a bit...the wheel should not have any type of 'dead' feel in the center but should have a smooth feel. The wheels should show a response to the turning of the steering with only a slight turn of the wheel. Play with the adjusting screw until you are at a point where the steering feels good and there is absolutely no binding or stiffness encountered when the wheel is fully turned left / right. If happy, lock the adjuster in place.
Often the box needs to be adjusted...one rarely mentioned thing is the shimming at the rear of the box. Not easy to access but after so many decades, I find it necessary to occasionally remove one of the thin metal shims from behind the small cover, ( held by four 10mm bolts.). Hopefully you will not have to go this far...usually not.
If you access the 356 Registry files, there are very excellent articles concerning the steering box and front end.
Once properly sorted, the 356 becomes very modern in steering feel and a pleasure to drive.

[Ashley James]

Will do. Thanks

Ash

[Ashley James]

Radio fixed. An AC126 transistor had failed, new bushes in gear lever assembly, pedals all cleaned, lubed and adjusted for correct free play.

On the transmission lock barrel is the number 53. That's all. Does it sound right?

No sign of trim kit from Belgium yet.

And still I wait for my steering box.

[Doug McDonnell]

Transmission lock key thread: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=39613&hilit=transmi ... rs&start=0