356 Camshaft

[Steve Crist]

Camshaft wear: The upper oil pump gear has created notches in the camshaft. See the close up images below. Should I be concerned? Do I need to replace the camshaft? Thanks

[David Jones]

Where are you Steve? If you were in the UK I would direct you to PR services but you may want to do a search on the forum and find the previous posts on the subject. While there you could put your information in to your profile which may help answer any future queries you may have.

[Steve Hatfield]

Here's a set I recently uncovered and judged it completely usable.

[Mike Horton]

Steve, that cam is marked 16, the elusive stock SC/912 cam, of which Cliff is so fond for street engines, as am I, Craig Richter, in his "How To Make An Old Porsche Fly" book, Duane Spencer, and others. Inspect it closely, it may can run again...

[Jacques Lefriant]

Hi Steve Crist
Is the bottom end still together? The camshaft has been unbolted from the gear at a previous time there are no lock tabs. you can use the industrial coupler and modified shaft that PR services provides. if the cam is loose you can consider a new wide lobe cam with the appropriate profile. I can provide a 16 or other grinds.
j

[Steve Crist]

Dave, my profile is updated but not pulling up. Thanks for catching that, I'll sort it out with the Registry.

Jacques, my engine is disassembled. I have a 356 '63 Super/ stock camshaft and 0 camshaft gear (528 05 102 AE). The engine was rebuilt in the Netherlands but never driven. I'm going over everything and correcting problems like the missing lock tabs you noticed. I'm leaning towards a new camshaft, something stock and appropriate for the street. Would you recommend a 16 for that use? Is it standard (or best) practice to also replace the camshaft gear, the valve lifters, and the timing gear on the crankshaft? I assume I can use the existing oil pump gear which seems to be in good shape. Thanks in advance for your expertise.

[Jacques Lefriant]

Hi your cam gear should be reusable check the backlash with the crank gear. the 16 grind is recommended by Cliff. the lifters can be resurfaced with or without taper to suit the cam. a new slot can be cut in the cam also if you choose to regrind. it used to be a common process here in SoCal. you may have to acquire all new parts since there a very few vendors that are capable now.
j

[C J Murray]

I don't use the lock tabs. Lock washers work better and you can use loctite also. The lock tabs are very soft and I feel that they are susceptible to compressing and causing the bolt to lose torque. Various old school engines used them on connecting rod fasteners and that is ultra stupid due to the pounding they get. As rpm increased they seem to have disappeared from use.

[Jacques Lefriant]

yes Cliff you are correct I was just observing that the cam had been serviced. I would use Loctite 271 and flat or spring washers definitely not split lock washers.
j

[Mike Horton]

Steve, look on the casting on the side of the cam, is there a number ending in 102? If so, according to the spec book, the timing specs are the same as the 16, as used in the SC/912.

...those may be the spring washers, to which Jacques referred,