2 Post Lift

[Clement Dang]

Does any body know how to modified the 2 post lift to lift from the wheels instead from the frame of the car?
Thanks

[Matthew Devereux]

One of the lift mfg's offers the components to do this (Mohawk) . I don't know if they are universal. What lift do you have?

[Matthew Devereux]

Here is a thread on a DIY solution
http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/co ... orage-lift

[David Jones]

I tried two different DIY methods. My chosen solution was the pad under each wheel.

[John Brooks]

8' X 2" x 1/8" wall "C" channel 16' long, trim one end to make ramps and pin or bolt them where the pads attach. Your local steel yard will have it. Make stops at the front, slot and tab the ramps so they come off. Be sure the bottom of the ramps set flush on the floor so it won't "see saw" when loading. Set the pad location between the wheels and check the CG balance before locating the attach points. That way you can use it as a drive on and still have the 4 point lift pads if needed.

[Clement Dang]

Hi John, do you have any picture so I know exactly what you are saying?
Thanks

[John Brooks]

Clement

The photo above shows a similar set up. It looks like 4" C Channel used there. The trick is to set the Channel wide enough to drive on and long enough to keep the car balanced when in the air. I looked for photos, but I have a 4 Post from Greg Smith in my toy box now. I like the 4 post but if you have a two post its not that hard

On the two post, you remove the lifting pads at the end of the arms and attach the "C Channel" with a large bolt or pin so it is solid to the arms. On the "drive on side" you cut off 2 feet of the channel to make a ramps. and a couple of 4" tall pieces to weld to the other end so you can't drive off the end. I also welded a 3" steel caster on the nose end and used it to move the C Channel around when not on the lift. Its a little heavy to move but the steel wheel on one makes pushing it around easier. Remember the "30/70" weight distribution on the tires, you want that center of gravity point centered on the two post columns. My first one was a little nose up which was not good for the lift cylinders. It worked OK but was a pain to reconfigure. I stored a 356 one winter hanging and the front shock froze up. It needs to sit on the tires.

I built a new toy box the last time I down sized and moved. I built a 15' Clear span based ceiling 10 years ago based on a "high and long" parking lift made in the USA by "Greg Smith" "high truck lift". Similar to (http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas ... -Pro-8-000 ) I like it much better that the fixed two post. I can store the one car in the air and one below and walk around under it. I can move the lift around on casters with a car on it. I have loaded the 356 then turned it sideways 90 degrees and pushed it up against the back wall in the corner and get two more Porsches parked on the floor under it. It moves easy on the casters and I can roll it out the door to work on dusty nasty stuff outside.
If you have a two post go to your local steel yard and look for some scrap C or H beams. 1/8 or 3/16" wall thickness. There is some cutting and welding involved but it's not hard. If you are buying a two post to convert, look at a mobile four post.

[Greg Scallon]

Clement,
Go to www.garagejournal.com and do a search. There has been at least one recent post about doing this, and there are several different examples.

Regards,
-Greg

[Clement Dang]

Any concern about this method?