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PostPosted: Thu Dec 10, 2015 11:58 am 
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Location: Redwood City, Ca 94062 San Mateo Co. CA
Hi all,
In 2016 I'd like to have the rear flares fixed to original on my Speedster.
I believe the original metal was literally rolled when done almost 42 years ago.
Any suggestions on qualified metal body men that can do this in the local San Mateo Co., Santa Clara Co. CA area?
Want to have it finished right with the correct inner lip bead or ridge. Trying to get a sense of cost or hours involved to do it and shoot some blue paint over repairs. Down the road hope to get car repainted,this repair would have to be done regardless of now or then.
All the best,
Steve


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2015 12:06 am 
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Location: Ladera Ranch, California
That's a big job requiring specialized metal work. I would ship it down to Steve Hogue Enterprises in Torrance. http://www.stevehogueenterprises.com. He is a master with metal. With the value of your car, it makes sense to take it to someone who really knows these cars. Well worth the tow to So. Cal. Check the latest Registry mag for a review of some of his work.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2015 1:01 am 
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+ 1 for Steve Hogue, a great guy who does beautiful work. You'll be glad you did.Some very good paint shops in L.A. Who can do the paint work as well.

Steve another thought , maybe just leave as is , very tastefully done, certainly looks good to me. BTW did your Dad have that done, always loved his cars...another great guy .

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2015 11:37 am 
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Hi,Steve, All,

Lots of memories of Bob arriving at our 356CAR meetings No. Cal., stepping outta' the Speedster and taking his shop rag to the car to clean off the dust. Mid-winter, summer, always would wipe her down before taking off his watch cap & jacket and join the group- Speedster first! I have the cans of Dark Sea Blue waiting to go on the outlaw this spring- fell in love with Bob's color 30 years ago!!

Long live the memories!! Jim


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2015 1:22 pm 
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Location: Redwood City, Ca 94062 San Mateo Co. CA
How important is it it have a 356 specialist do the repairs as opposed to a quality metal shop not specializing in these cars?
Just asking.
A 356 restoration guy thought if the fenders are original metal which I think it is,it could be done for about $100 per fender.
Think this amount is way low.
Steve

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2015 12:46 am 
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That sounds too low to be quality work. It should take 1 hour just to strip the areas of both fenders to be worked. Then 3 or so hours of work on each fender, perhaps more, and you have at least a full day's worth of work at going rate of at least $75-150/hr for quality metal work. I would contact a specialist for an accurate quote and opinion.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2015 12:57 am 
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steve raucher wrote:
A 356 restoration guy thought if the fenders are original metal which I think it is,it could be done for about $100 per fender.
Think this amount is way low.
Steve
I don't know who you are speaking with, but there is some misunderstanding here. You have stripping, metal work, and then you have the paint; where is it to be 'edged'?
I'd go back for some clarification; you guys are not on the same page.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2018 6:00 pm 
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Location: Redwood City, Ca 94062 San Mateo Co. CA
Hi all,
So I've been in line for months to get into my local reputable body shop but keep getting the run around.
They are buried with limited talented craftsmen. They want to hand fabricate out of metal the rear wheel arches, cut out the old flares and weld in the new metal.
Anyway I'm tied of waiting although it's been 44 years since flares were installed rather nicely I must say. Anyone have Jim Hardie's contact info I think he is in the Sacramento CA area. I'd like to find a good craftsman more local to me say in the San Jose, CA area any recommendations? I know of a guy in the Santa Cruz mountains but the logistics may be challenging.
Also I'm torn regarding cutting out the old metal flares as opposed to putting relief cuts in them and messaging them back into place should I be so concerned? Would you be if you were buying a Speedster, or other fine 356?
BYW, removed the chrome jewelry from both bumpers kinda like the new look for a change.
Thank you and KTF!,
Steve


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2018 7:09 pm 
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PM sent with Jim Hardie's contact info.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2018 11:01 am 
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Mark Miletich in Scott’s Valley has been doing 356 restorations for the last forty years and has a high fuss level. I have seen four cars he has done the flair reversal on in the last four years, including a speedster GT. He is old school and does everything in house. I’ll private email you his contact info.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2018 11:29 am 
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Location: Santa Monica, CA
If any car should keep the flares, it is yours. The history of them is wonderful!

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2018 12:46 pm 
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Location: Redwood City, Ca 94062 San Mateo Co. CA
Yes I spoke to Del Sessions and Mark yesterday.
Schedules etc. just not jiving.
The flares are cool they had their time trying to get car back to correctness one day a new caretaker will step in and more correct will be the way to go, thanks for the last sentiments.
These decisions are not easy and each big change is epic in cars history.
Just hope it all turns out right.
Regards,
Steve

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2018 2:09 am 
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Location: Foster City, CA
Cutting out and replacing the arches, if done right, you should not be able to tell from outer or inner sides that there were new welds. Using same gauge steel whether from a cut up car or sheet is best but one dead giveaway is if there is a divit or glob of metal in the edge where the original rolled portion of the fender runs into the new metal rolled area. This should be perfect all the way around from the outside to the edge and backside as you feel along the edge. Thinner gauge steel results in poorer welds and more working of the metal.

It's been years since I did bodywork myself, used to be a bodyman/painter in another lifetime but I would think trying to cut, splice, and shrink the original metal from flared to flat would be very difficult without a lot of hours and potentially a lot of filler to get it straight. Cutting and welding a new panel done right should result in a skim coat of filler to smooth it out for paint for the best of them out there. 356's also have detailed compound curves in that area. They would have to match that profile.

My bodyman is in SoCal but he's taken Hebmuller's that were literally half a car and made a whole car out of them. Pretty amazing work, show winning. His trick is using metal from 50's and 60's VW's as the source was the same back in the day as well as the gauge.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2018 10:09 am 
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Location: Redwood City, Ca 94062 San Mateo Co. CA
Hi and thanks to all for chiming in.
A couple of questions: Are the rear wheel arches shapes the same on A cars relating to Speedsters less the pre a cars I know are different shape?
Also what gauge or thickness is the metal of the rear wheel arches?
I'm on hold with my local body man as he is buried with business. He took measurements on both sides and has another Speedster in his shop.
By time he gets to my car that Speedster may/may not still be there for reference. I'm worried about getting proper symmetry on body lines etc.
Regards,
Steve

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