Kingpin Bushing Reamer

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Jacques Lefriant
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Re: Kingpin Bushing Reamer

#16 Post by Jacques Lefriant »

Hi Joris
I sent one to Bob Garretson he may be done with it. I also have an extra head without the base which takes less room. try to get a 16xx one and stay away from the ones that have only one tension adjustment. and also the old Red Automotive ones since you can't get parts. They are usually a good deal on Ebay since they are kind of like ink jet printers the tooling is way more profitable.
j
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Bill Lawless
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Re: Kingpin Bushing Reamer

#17 Post by Bill Lawless »

Reading through this older KingPin reamer stuff.. Just an FYI on how I did it with a Regular old $10 7" reamer, not kingpin specific..
Key is to do one at a time, replace one brass bushing and leave one old bushing in there. Send the reamer through the old bushing as a guide to do the opposite side.
Then replace the other old bushing and use the new one you just reamed as a guide to do the other side.. Perfectly aligned!!!

-Bill
 Thanks,
Bill
65' 356 SC Cab Irish Green :D
82' SC Targa
81 VW Westfalia with 2015 Forester Engine
BMW 64'-R50/2, 75'-BMW R90/6, 74' BMW R90/6, Yamaha BW350

Jon Bunin
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Re: Kingpin Bushing Reamer

#18 Post by Jon Bunin »

Bill Lawless wrote: Mon Jun 10, 2019 7:08 amKey is to do one at a time, replace one brass bushing and leave one old bushing in there. Send the reamer through the old bushing as a guide to do the opposite side.
Then replace the other old bushing and use the new one you just reamed as a guide to do the other side.. Perfectly aligned!!!
I did this recently, with the adjustable reamers.
I size the bushings for the kingpin to be pushed in by hand, but won't fall through from its own weight.
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DonCichocki
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Re: Kingpin Bushing Reamer

#19 Post by DonCichocki »

Jon or Jacques,
When doing the final assembly, pressing the kingpin into the stub axle, how do you stop the bottom link pin hole from distorting?

Jon Bunin
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Re: Kingpin Bushing Reamer

#20 Post by Jon Bunin »

DonCichocki wrote: Mon Jun 10, 2019 2:05 pmWhen doing the final assembly, pressing the kingpin into the stub axle, how do you stop the bottom link pin hole from distorting?
Don, one linkpin bushing should be installed in the carrier (c-link) before pressing the kingpin into the stub axle. The bushing will prevent the carrier from distorting.
You can put a linkpin in the bushing for additional support.
Jon Bunin

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Bill Lawless
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Re: Kingpin Bushing Reamer

#21 Post by Bill Lawless »

Jon Bunin wrote: Mon Jun 10, 2019 2:31 pm
DonCichocki wrote: Mon Jun 10, 2019 2:05 pmWhen doing the final assembly, pressing the kingpin into the stub axle, how do you stop the bottom link pin hole from distorting?
Don, one linkpin bushing should be installed in the carrier (c-link) before pressing the kingpin into the stub axle. The bushing will prevent the carrier from distorting.
You can put a linkpin in the bushing for additional support.
Yikes, that would of been a good idea.. I just pushed my in, today, with a press and the bottom link hole wide open.. Lucky no distortion... pheeeewww!!
Just finished my test drive, loving my SC..
 Thanks,
Bill
65' 356 SC Cab Irish Green :D
82' SC Targa
81 VW Westfalia with 2015 Forester Engine
BMW 64'-R50/2, 75'-BMW R90/6, 74' BMW R90/6, Yamaha BW350

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Harlan Halsey
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Re: Kingpin Bushing Reamer

#22 Post by Harlan Halsey »

I think Jacques has it right. We have been honing rather than reaming for quite a while around here. It's not too hard to align (bend)the C-link, but be sure to polish the inside corners and then mag it. And it takes a lot of force with the press to move those king pins.

Jon Bunin
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Re: Kingpin Bushing Reamer

#23 Post by Jon Bunin »

Bill Lawless wrote: Mon Jun 10, 2019 7:13 pmYikes, that would of been a good idea.. I just pushed my in, today, with a press and the bottom link hole wide open.. Lucky no distortion... pheeeewww!!
According to the factory manual, the stub axle should be heated to 176-194° in an oil bath before the kinpin is pressed in, but that's a very messy business.
I wouldn't advise using a torch unless you can check the temperature accurately- a small piece like that will heat up quickly, and unevenly.
You can warm the stub axle in a conventional oven, chill the kingpin, and lube the parts with oil or grease. It usually doesn't require too much force to press the kingpin in place.
An induction heater is another option, if you have access to one.
Jon Bunin

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Bill Lawless
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Re: Kingpin Bushing Reamer

#24 Post by Bill Lawless »

Jon Bunin wrote: Mon Jun 10, 2019 9:15 pm
Bill Lawless wrote: Mon Jun 10, 2019 7:13 pmYikes, that would of been a good idea.. I just pushed my in, today, with a press and the bottom link hole wide open.. Lucky no distortion... pheeeewww!!
According to the factory manual, the stub axle should be heated to 176-194° in an oil bath before the kinpin is pressed in, but that's a very messy business.
I wouldn't advise using a torch unless you can check the temperature accurately- a small piece like that will heat up quickly, and unevenly.
You can warm the stub axle in a conventional oven, chill the kingpin, and lube the parts with oil or grease. It usually doesn't require too much force to press the kingpin in place.
An induction heater is another option, if you have access to one.
Thanks Jon, next time I do these I will be a bit wiser..
 Thanks,
Bill
65' 356 SC Cab Irish Green :D
82' SC Targa
81 VW Westfalia with 2015 Forester Engine
BMW 64'-R50/2, 75'-BMW R90/6, 74' BMW R90/6, Yamaha BW350

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Al Zim
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Re: Kingpin Bushing Reamer

#25 Post by Al Zim »

Things that are WRONG with these posts: VW made millions of link pin cars! No mater where the parts were made they were all the same diameter. Check the setting on your micrometer! Reamers wear out! be sure you measure your reamer before you start cutting be gentle measuring or you will be reaming your micrometer. Pressing the king pin in and out. Sintered iron bushings have no strength neither do brass bushings. You will CAREFULLY have to make a tool to keep the end of the C carrier from collapsing. You MUST have a VW 259 to check the offset of the carrier or your camber will be wrong.
Check the pitman arm location with a P 69 many they can be heated and returned to specification. It is always in your best interests to locate a P70 to make sure the trailing arms are not bent. When servicing front ends we expect at least one trailing arm to be out of specification. Usually it is the lower right it is first to hit the curb. What do you do when the king pin hole in the spindle is enlarged? We NEVER shim the king pin using the plastic bushings. Plastic bushings were used to service the king pins in a repair shot not a machine shop. Do not forget to read the shop manual regarding the steering stop no one ever seems to pay attention to that. We keep 3 reamers here at all times and usually measure the one we are going to use. They wear and get smaller. Each part needs to be carefully measured to insure the correct fit of the replacement part. PARTS MADE IN THIRD WORLD COUNTRIES ARE NOT CHECKED BY THE IMPORTER. You get to figure that out. Not to long ago there was a post that stated get some tools you can do the rebuilding. If you went to work at the factory after you completed a high school training program the factory continued to give you more training. The individuals with aptitude got to work on the race cars and build the 4 cam engines. The other put the tires on the car. We are skilled at 356 work. The parts we sell you are the parts we put on customer cars. No other facility selling parts or servicing 356 cars has our experience. al zim 800.356.2964 call us we can answer you question. 2019/06/11
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