Is there a way, maybe with a multi-meter, to check if the speaker or wiring is bad while they are in-place? I've got one speaker that works fine and the other doesn't work at all. It appears the wiring is connected OK but I can't tell if I've got a bad speaker or bad wiring.
Thanks!
Testing speakers/wiring in-place?
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Dan Macdonald
- 356 Fan
- Posts: 1044
- Joined: Tue Mar 25, 2008 7:37 pm
- Location: Marin County, Calfornia
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Testing speakers/wiring in-place?
Dan Macdonald
'59 A Coupe (105327)
'57 Speedster (82954)
Registry #1921 (1982)
DMAIA@aol.com
My YouTube Channel: Tinmeister 356
'59 A Coupe (105327)
'57 Speedster (82954)
Registry #1921 (1982)
DMAIA@aol.com
My YouTube Channel: Tinmeister 356
-
Mike Klapac
- 356 Fan
- Posts: 690
- Joined: Thu Apr 03, 2008 12:41 pm
Dan,
One way I can think of is to use an Ohm meter to check if you have a load to drive at the speaker. I'm not a 356 speaker expert, but most speakers should give you a reading of 4-16 ohms. across the two terminals measured at the speaker or where the wiring comes back to the head unit. If the measurement is an open and not a low resistance reading, you may have a wire that is no longer on the speaker or it is possibly broken somewhere. You could also measure from a good chassis ground to each of the wires to determine if the wire has rubbed through and is shorting to the chassis. Should give you a 0 ohm reading or awfully close to it if shorted. Before you do all of that, swap the speaker inputs at the head end unit to see if you maybe have a bad channel on the amp. If the dead speaker doesn't bark at you with a known good amp output, probably a dead speaker or a bad connection.
Good Luck!
K
One way I can think of is to use an Ohm meter to check if you have a load to drive at the speaker. I'm not a 356 speaker expert, but most speakers should give you a reading of 4-16 ohms. across the two terminals measured at the speaker or where the wiring comes back to the head unit. If the measurement is an open and not a low resistance reading, you may have a wire that is no longer on the speaker or it is possibly broken somewhere. You could also measure from a good chassis ground to each of the wires to determine if the wire has rubbed through and is shorting to the chassis. Should give you a 0 ohm reading or awfully close to it if shorted. Before you do all of that, swap the speaker inputs at the head end unit to see if you maybe have a bad channel on the amp. If the dead speaker doesn't bark at you with a known good amp output, probably a dead speaker or a bad connection.
Good Luck!
K