Replace Rear Bearing and Seals?

[Paul Ahnell]

I'm replacing the Left rear axle bearing and seals as they are leaking through the splines. I'm having a shop do it since they have the proper tools and I don't. e.g. puller, mandrel, etc. I'll have them do shoes, drums, and cylinders on both sides too. Now, I'd like to hear from Wizards who are a lot smarter at this stuff than I. Should I replace the Right bearing and seals as well, even though the right seals aren't leaking and the bearing is quiet (best I can tell). I ask the question because, from what I've read, seal replacement can be a black art and they can start to leak again quite easily. I'm afraid of lousing up something that appears to be fine. Should I leave well enough alone or do the right side seals and bearing while everything is apart ?

Thanks for your opinion.

[Jacques Lefriant]

Unless a turkey was working on the car leaking from the splines usually indicate a loose nut you may be in real trouble. Have the shop check for bent axles and yes do the other side be sure the shop uses the hard washer before the small o ring and if they are really good have them measure for the shims that are available now at a good price since Zim's and Stoddard stepped up.
j

[Paul Ahnell]

Jacques: Thanks for your recommendations. When you say "loose" and "real trouble" in the same sentence, I get nervous. Regarding the "loose nut"; as I remember taking off the castle nuts I have a vague recollection that the right axle showed a little more thread outside the nut than the left side when I removed them. Not a lot, probably like less than a thread, but it is the feeling that they were a little different that sticks in my mind. I know it's subjective, but could <1 thread mean "real trouble"? I know 400 #-ft is the standard for the nut. I have the Stoddard seal kit with three .004" shims and I've read the shop manual procedure 16RA regarding measuring for shim thickness which I will give to the shop. I'll expect them to measure, do the math, and shim correctly. This is a VW Bug shop so I think they've seen this before (ha ha - what could go wrong?).

[Jim Nelson]

Time to make sure the splines are within spec, as well.

[Paul Ahnell]

Jim: Thanks for the hot tip, but I didn't see any spline specs in Section R of the shop manual. When you get a chance, can you pass them on to me? Thanks.

[Dick Weiss]

Paul,

Checking for some rotational clearance between the axle and brake drum splines, use your hands as there shouldn't be any,
including the check for any 'rocking' (like checking the front link & king pin clearances); Thusly a close slide-on spline-fit.

When changing the axle bearing(s), make sure the axle is NOT allowed to move outward, or the fulcrum keys may fall out
from the axle's blade (inside the carrier. I jack up the axle(s) slightly above level to retain most of the transmission oil from leaking out--& keeping the axle in place when pulling the bearing(s).

Dick

[Paul Ahnell]

Dick: Thanks for that, and for reminding me about the fulcrum keys and about raising the axles. I ordered the seal kit from Stoddard and it included a very detailed write-up by Mike Robbins (11/5/98 to 356talk) re: Steps in replacing rear axle bearing - 356 drum brake. Mike mentions the points you just made. Kudos to Stoddard for including Mike's write-up and detailed diagrams.

[Steve Newland]

I am replacing the axle seals on my 60 T5, using the Stoddard kit. I haven’t done this before and I have a few questions:
(1) After reading the manual and following the steps in the Mike Robbins write up, I was not expecting that a slight tap with my hand would dislodge the backing plate and the bearing. I’m concerned that in the process, the axle may have come out too far. How do you determine if the fulcrum plates have been disturbed?
(2) The assembly that I removed was incorrect in a number of ways and someone had tried to solve the leaks in the past with lots of sealant. I’ve cleaned all that up and want to get it right this time. The inner spacer had some damage (see photo). This is the surface that presents to the fillet radius on the axle. What should I do?

BAE34921-BBE0-4AD1-861F-B15BC46E6A7A.jpeg (1.78 MiB) Viewed 479 times

(3) The trial fit up of the new seals went OK, except for the larger o-ring. The one that I removed was quite thin and about the same diameter as the bearing O.D. The new one seems to be just a bit too small in diameter. Instead of sitting comfortably on the face of the bearing cap, it tends to slip into the recess behind the new seal. I have already creased it slightly from the trial fit up. Do I need to get a new one? How do you get it to stay in place?

[Vic Skirmants]

2. You could use that spacer as-is. It also identical to every VW up to 1968(?).
3. The O-ring fits over the bearing; it is a slight stretch for the drum-brake cars; no problem. The disc-brake cars use a slightly larger O-ring.

[Steve Newland]

Thanks for your answers, Vic.
3. A closer look at the diagram in the manual makes it quite clear, now that you have pointed it out to me!
2. I’ll check with the local VW guys.
1. I was hoping for an answer to this one. If things have gone awry, will it be obvious?

[Vic Skirmants]

"will it be obvious?"
Yes; if the inner spacer is proud of the inner part of the axle tube. You are probably OK.

[Steve Newland]

Thankyou Vic.

[Vic Skirmants]

Actually, more flush than proud. Sorry for my misdirection. If it's very pronounced, there is a problem; if only flush or close, you're OK.

[Steve Newland]

20201129_103214.jpg (3.11 MiB) Viewed 403 times

OK. So, although quite a loose fit, flush with bearing cap seat says it's OK.

[Vic Skirmants]

It's OK.