A fuel pump removal

[Leonard Quartetti]

What is the best way to access the fuel pump bolts to remove the pump?

[Tom Tate]

The easiest way I've found is to remove the tin under the pump after you have removed that large piece of tin closest to the rear of the car. I have a 1/8" drive ratchet that with a 13mm socket will fit in there and walk the nuts off. Good Luck

[Daryl Bruhl]

On my 63 with sport muffler it was not necessary to remove rear engine tin. I found by removing all cheese heads from rear engine tin it will allow you to push it up enough to get the small cupped section out from under the fuel pump and then get to the bottom 13mm bolt. This will makes it easier by not having to mess with rubber compartment seal. I highly recommend replacing diaphragm if you are having any starting issues thinking that all gas has evaporated from carbs. In my case it made a day and night difference. My 20 year old diaphragm looked like a fat doughnut and I am sure was not working as needed. While you are messing with fuel system do it all, check tank petcock filter (mine resealed without new cup gasket) that will give you a idea if inline filter is getting any flakes. Also spend 10 buck on new rubber fuel line front to back. KTF
Enjoy
Daryl 63 S90 coupe SUNNY SoCal

[Jim Alton]

I would recommend getting an appropriate sized "universal socket" like:

Snap-On Socket, Metric, Universal, Shallow, 13 mm, 6-Point

TMUSM8A.jpg (68.71 KiB) Viewed 1743 times

I think the correct size is around 13 mm but you should check that.

Sockets with integral universal joints will fit where standard sockets with universal joint adapters won't. Snap-On is hideously expensive but easy to find online; any decent brand will work. If you don't have a few lengths of ¼” drive extensions pick some up, too.

[Steve Harrison]

Plus one on the swivel sockets. And Snap On also.
I have found that Snap On tools are thinner walled than the others I have, (mostly craftsman albeit) and can often get into places where others can't.
I guess it's the better metallurgy. Expensive, yes.
I could never afford a full set, but just bought the individual piece here or there as a need arose.
The other thing to note about swivel sockets is to pick through them and get one that doens't "flop around". It's really frustrating trying to use one of those when it flops over when trying to get into a tight space.
Some of mine I've had to reset the pin with a punch on the anvil to tighten them up.

[Tom Tate]

Jim, thanks for the link in your reply. I had no idea those were so expensive, now I know why I don't have any. At $42 each that would make a set pretty dear...

[Jim Alton]

Jim, thanks for the link in your reply. I had no idea those were so expensive, now I know why I don't have any. At $42 each that would make a set pretty dear...

I agree with Steve Harrison that Snap-On makes wonderful tools. My limited set of Snap-Ons are great: I had a Snap-On torque wrench re-calibrated for probably the first time in 30 years and the lab just sent it back with a certificate saying it was still ± 2%.

But, I've succeeded in removing and replacing fuel pumps with a Craftsman universal socket.