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PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2015 8:46 pm 
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It is virtually impossible to change the cooler without dropping the engine. In theory it may be possible but in practice it is not.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2015 9:32 pm 
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David Jones wrote:
It is virtually impossible to change the cooler without dropping the engine. In theory it may be possible but in practice it is not.


I think Dick would disagree:

Dick Weiss wrote:
...A '65 case in my former coupe actually cracked off next to the inlet hole and another broke off next to the outlet hole; again, both were repaired w/o a tear down and my engine was still in the car! ...
Dick

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2015 9:56 pm 
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The T6 coupe has a larger engine opening than older cars and open cars, which would be a big help to removing the cooler with the engine in the car.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2015 10:03 pm 
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I stand corrected but I would still remove the engine as being the easy way to facilitate the change. It has to be a very tight squeeze to get the fan shroud out and back in and getting the screws in for the tinwork after re-assembly would not be easy.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2015 10:46 pm 
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I did it in a parking lot in Wyoming once, it was not fun but my floor jack was 1000 miles away.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2015 8:59 am 
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Yes, although I bet someone pulled it off with the engine in and I also bet he won't try it again!


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2015 10:07 am 
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You speaking from experience, Don ? :D

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2015 11:26 am 
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DonCichocki wrote:
If you ever have an original steel cooler crack from age with the resultant oil mess ALL over the engine compartment you'll wish you replaced it when you had the chance. Even if it isn't leaking I would replace it and pass the original on to the next owner, just my $.02.


This is the other impetus for my question - I'd rather replace it before it cracks than after, and given the car is 50 years old, it's bound to happen sooner or later (and probably at a really inopportune time). I'll keep the steel cooler of course, for when I find the car's original engine and sell the current engine to whomever needs it (a nice dream, I know).


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2015 1:17 pm 
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No problem changing out the cooler in a C with the engine in. Due to the square top hat on the aluminum cooler I needed to take off the engine hood to get the fan housing back on.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 27, 2015 8:00 pm 
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Hi All
VP has just received production an aluminum oil cooler that incorporates changes recommended by John Wilhoit.
from left to right
1. a cooler that is available from the aftermarket looks crude has 5 passes
2. the obsolete aluminum cooler was expensive to manufacture has 6 passes but can be restrictive in airflow
3. the generic cooler that is available has 4 passes very similar to the Airflow version
4. the VP one that is like #3 but has the rectangular top like the stock early B and has improved airfoils
5. the new VP one that is identical to #4 but has the small top. Wilhoit requested that since he liked the airflow of #4 over #2 and the top of #3. 3,4,5 are Manufactured by the Aero Classics but 4+5 are propriety VP ones.


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Last edited by Jacques Lefriant on Fri Nov 27, 2015 11:04 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 27, 2015 8:24 pm 
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What changes?

Please explain your potpourri of coolers picture. What is what?

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 27, 2015 8:52 pm 
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CJ just finished editing go back

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 27, 2015 9:38 pm 
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If you sent the 3 on the right to NASA for testing would they conclude that they all cooled the same and that the rational approach would be to make only 1 version and reduce the price due to economy of scale?

I am guessing that nobody has done real testing of any of these coolers including the originals that would determine the benefits or failings regarding oil flow, pressure drop, cooling efficiency, effect on left or right side cylinder cooling, and so on.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 27, 2015 9:50 pm 
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Hi CJ
some testing has been done. all but #2 have the same airflow as some of the stock ones. VW addressed the problem of cylinder 3+4 cooling with their Dog House version when it became an issue with more engine power. There has been at least 2000 alloy coolers installed so if they were a problem it would have been reported.
j
BTW the #4 will work better since there is more surface area and contact to the passes than #3 these coolers are bar and plate construction so the core is the critical component and is labor intensive. even thought Aero had the #3 in their repertoire VP had the #5 designed to use the same core as #4. Production of #3 had been less than 200 units #4 is approaching 900 units #5 just started.

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Last edited by Jacques Lefriant on Fri Nov 27, 2015 10:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 27, 2015 10:52 pm 
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Adding to my previous comment about replacing an oil cooler w/o droping the engine, I wouldn't do it again
now-a-days as the refitment of the sheet metal and screws will be the biggest difficulty unless it wa properly done @ previous assembly.
When I repaired the 2-broken pieces (1-each engine), I bonded them to its mating surface and added 3-special
screws for reinforcement and missing the oil holes. In future rebuilds, I'm considering doing this to the mounting pad to prevent future cracking--epecially on the early case pad w/o the under-gusset reinforcement.

Dick


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