Any new tips on removing generator pulley hub?

[Dave Wildrick]

I have a worn pulley hub on a generator that was on my 64 C coupe when I first bought it in 1976 and is now in my 65C coupe.
So, it is not easily coming off the shaft after soaking in Kroil. I moved it about 1/8 inch away from the generator end bell, but that's where it wants to stay.

Previous advice on 356talk for removing these has included cutting it off with a Dremel tool, prying with 2 cold chisels 180 degrees apart, etc.

Would a battery terminal puller work? These are easy to find, and I don't own any other pullers.

[Brad Ripley]

The woodruff key is cocked up on one end. You will not get it off. Do the Dremel thing very carefully to save the armature shaft the best you can.

[Richard Shilling]

Brad's right, probably the woodruff key. Try tapping the back, more Kroil, and then prying in the off direction with two screw drivers, two chisels, etc. If you can move it back and forth there is a slim chance it will come off, but don't use too much pressure. The careful use of a Dremel is a good solution. You want to avoid the woodruff key, the woodruff key slot and the armature, so proceed slowly.

[Dick Weiss]

The pulley hub is usually rusted to the shaft and 'Kroiling' it will eventally work allowing a 'pry off'. I've used a little heat w/a propane torch, but a small 2-arm puller will also work. When regular hex nuts rust to threads, a small 'rap' w/a hammer & pin-punch will kinda shock it loose. Once the hub is slightly movable, work it back-and-forth till it can be removed. Clean the hub and deburr it's slot,
re-dress the woodruff slot and the key; it should fit snugly so it won't move/fall out, add some anti-sieze, and re-assemble.

Dick

[Dave Wildrick]

Thanks for all the advice.
After 2 days sitting in lots of Kroil, the hub came off slowly by prying with 2 medium screwdrivers. I doubt that this hub was ever removed before.

I got a battery terminal puller for twenty bucks from Amazon (by Lisle tools), but the shaft on it was too short to reach behind the hub.

The generator shaft looks O.K., and the woodruff key is not in really bad shape, but I have a better one to put on. I'll be sure to use Never-Seize when I reassemble.

[Al Zim]

Your prying with the screw drivers and/or using the cold chisels has forced loaded both bearing. The result is that one of the of the end caps may be cracked. The only way to remove the hub is with a proper puller which should be available from a VW parts shop.
Once the hub is in place the woodruff is also in place. The woodruff key will only move when installing the hub not removing it.
I would suggest you remove the generator and check the end plates for cracks and to make sure the bearing does not move up and down in the end plates. Many shops will put a piece of corrugated metal around the bearing to take up the space between the bearing and the housing. This will quickly fail because of the imbalance in the fan. A set of end caps solves this situation. Call us for these parts. Always replace the bearings with sealed bearings. Copy Write 2015 all rights reserved. al zim

[DonCichocki]

Al,
You have more 356 knowledge in your little finger than I have in my whole body but I thought "shielded" not "sealed" bearings were to be used in our generators, could you straighten me out here?