The Official 356Talk Forum

This thread has proven immensely valuable to me! Many thanks to all who posted.

Based on what I have read, to my '62 car I am going to add a 16-mm C front sway bar, a very easy mod. which I would never have thought of. Also a real GT seat for the driver if I can find one (leads welcome!), 5.5" rims in the back only, and Parabolic intake trumpets for the Zenith carburetors (for fun every once in a while).

Three plain-Jane moves are a VDM slotted spoke wood wheel, a pair of 128's, and LED bulbs for the instruments and brake lights. Those Coddington rims (which were only in the far recesses of my mind) seen on Tim's car are really calling me now too.

Forget the Parabolics for Zeniths. They don't do anything.

Vic Skirmants wrote:Forget the Parabolics for Zeniths. They don't do anything.

So what do they do and to what do they do it to?

Vic Skirmants wrote:Forget the Parabolics for Zeniths. They don't do anything.

Agreed. Only for the look.

Contact Russ at Fiber Steel. I have his GT seats in two of my cars. Nothing more comfortable. Tiff and I drove nearly 4,000 miles this Spring in Europe with them. Be sure to get his alum. frame kit also.

...............................................Jim.

Not a lot that hasn't been said, but a few mods I have done (thanks to this forum):

To Stop – Dual circuit brakes and 185's on 5.5 rims

To let people know I am stopping: CU layer tail lights (red/red LED’s behind euro lenses-insanely bright) and a 911 switch in the peddle cluster so by the time I press down a ½ inch the brake lights are on.

Safety – Three point seat belts

To See: Relays in headlight buckets for bright headlights and LED’s in the dash lights so I can actually see my gauges.

Starting - Joe Leoni's relay on the starter and an electric fuel pump if has been sitting (also nice if you need to fill the fuel bowls after doing carb work).

Reliability - A Jack Stagg's built engine and a Jon Bunin built trans.

Ben

Steve Hatfield wrote:

Vic Skirmants wrote:Forget the Parabolics for Zeniths. They don't do anything.

So what do they do and to what do they do it to?

In theory, and sometimes in practice, stacks allow more air to be pulled (no ram effect) into the engine. More air mixed with more gas gives a bigger bang and more power. Their negative is no or reduced filtration.

Edwin,
I understand that. But I was responding to Vic's comment regarding Zenith's and specifically what effect on Solex and Weber carbs?

Excellent thread, I've found it very informative over the years.

I'm still wondering how practical it would be to have the Wilhoit anti sway bar and Vic's camber regulator shipped to the UK. Probably not at all with the pound being so weak against the dollar at the moment. I have a friend bringing one of Ron's fancy sump plates over in his luggage for me later in the month but the torsion bar and camber regulator was asking a bit much.

For me, the most enjoyable modification has been an engine rebuilt to 1720 with all new bits and pieces by Prill's and then adding a 123 distributor a bit later on. I have 8k on this engine now and it starts on the button every time, feels powerful, looks beautiful, sounds great and allows me to enjoy the driving.

Fitting LEDs all round has given me confidence that people can see me and then having my old seat springs filled with foam and the seats re-upholstered in leather has made them much more comfortable.

Cocoa mats finish the interior off nicely and are incredibly well made.

Had to be Dynomat to silence the horrid little four banger engine.

I have John's front sway bar on my '63 coupe with my stock 4-1\2" rims and Vrederstein 175 tires and like the handling. I did have a Weltmeister sway bar now hanging in the rafters but I like John's better.

I tried the 123 distributor but decided to go with a recurved 022. If you'd like to try the 123, let me know.

Mike

I go for extremes.

At one end, absolutely nothing - except when rebuilding the motor to a higher standard with a big bore kit when needed. Keep the original experience, 6v and all.

At the other extreme though I’ve gone a full Emory outlaw build.

Top 3 mods on mine definitely have to be the Golde steel sunroof clip swap (compliments of Dave Aase, many many years ago), the 1720 NPR big bore, and a 12 bolt diff carrier for peace of mind.

Don
I agree as I can check off all three of of these as well, plus 12 volts and a period ‘62 Nardi.

Front disc brake conversion, dual circuit master cylinder, Joe Leoni's headlight and starter relays, LED instrument lights, CU Layer rear brake/turn signal LEDs, Halogen headlights, 1883 or 1720 engines, Precision Matters free flow oil filters and sump plates, 3 point seat belts, head rests (seat back frame tabs had gussets added for strength and recliner screw nuts were brazed on), electric fuel pump primer, John Willhoit front sway bar, Bruce Crawford wood VDM steering wheel, tall 4th gear.

Mike