I've been noticing a smell of gasoline lingering in my garage after taking my 356 out for a ride. I took out the dipstick and noticed the oil level to be higher than normal. When I smelled the oil on the stick, there was a distinctive odor of gasoline.
I have Solex split shaft(converted by Carb Rescue to Solid), P-11 40's on the engine and I took off the top part and blew out both needle valves with compressed air. I also checked both floats and they seem to be working fine. If there wasn't a particle stopping a needle valve from working properly and if neither of the floats got stuck, what else could have caused my fuel in the oil problem? Thank you, Bob
Gas in Oil
- Bob DiCorpo
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Gas in Oil
Bob DiCorpo
'56 Speedster
Massachusetts
'56 Speedster
Massachusetts
- Rob Green
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Re: Gas in Oil
Possible partial failure of fuel pump diaphragm will cause fuel to enter sump. Other carb issues related to fuel leaking into intake manifolds from carbs while not running..... a possibility.
Rob
Rob
Last edited by Rob Green on Tue Apr 15, 2014 4:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Gas in Oil
The leak could have corrected itself as soon as you lifted a wrench.I had a similar issue with my solex's 32 s took them apart never found a problem nor has it ever happened again... i make it a point to close off my pet cock as i am rounding the corner to my driveway, if i am parking for the night. Its a good habit to have also deters theft. as most people don't know about the petcock. fyi never trailer your car with the petcock open..
Regards Ned
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Re: Gas in Oil
Most likely is the fuel pump diaphragm, followed by needle and seats. In any case, change the oil.
Richard Shilling
1965 356C dolphingrey
1965 356C dolphingrey
- Bob DiCorpo
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Re: Gas in Oil
Definitely changing the oil again. Just did it two weeks ago using Brad Penn 20/50. That's forty bucks down the drain. Better that than an entire engine though. I'll order a fuel pump re-building kit. Thank you for all of your responses. Bob
Bob DiCorpo
'56 Speedster
Massachusetts
'56 Speedster
Massachusetts
- David Jones
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Re: Gas in Oil
Bob, Before you rush off and change the oil, check how much gas is in there. If it is say maybe a pint it may not be worth changing. A pint would not dilute the oil enough to seriously affect the viscosity and if you run the car until it gets to temperature most of that gas will have boiled off by the time it is up to temp. Remember two stroke engines such as in my chainsaw run a 50 to 1 mix of gas to oil and you will be in the opposite ratio of maybe 10 to 1 oil to gas. If you spin the engine over and the oil pressure warning light goes out then the oil still has decent viscosity.
Same thing happened to me some years ago on my 59 cabrio and I ran it with at least a pint in it. So far at least 10K miles later there are no apparent ill effects.
Same thing happened to me some years ago on my 59 cabrio and I ran it with at least a pint in it. So far at least 10K miles later there are no apparent ill effects.
If I had known I would live this long I would have pushed the envelope a little harder.
Cymru am byth
David Jones #9715
Cymru am byth
David Jones #9715
- Neil M. Fennessey
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Re: Gas in Oil
Hi Bob,
I would take the car out for a ride to warm it up then shut it down and take the air cleaner off each carb. On the PII-4 carb, there is a round brass fitting that sticks up into the air cleaner about 1/2". Take a wooden pencil, eraser side down and gently lower it in through that fitting. The eraser will touch the top of the float. If the float valve is not sticking, you can easily bounce it around with the pencil. If it doesn't bounce, it's sticking.
My guess is that one or two of the float valves was a little cranky waking up after this cold winter.
As to rebuilding the fuel pump, I think you might be better off sending it out to be rebuilt. My choice would be Ed Fall. He makes his own ethanol proof fuel pump diaphragms. I can lend you a core if need be.
Edward Fall
Email: edfall@vintagewerks.com
Phone: (801) 944-9777
http://www.vintagewerks.com/html/contac ... ation.html
I would take the car out for a ride to warm it up then shut it down and take the air cleaner off each carb. On the PII-4 carb, there is a round brass fitting that sticks up into the air cleaner about 1/2". Take a wooden pencil, eraser side down and gently lower it in through that fitting. The eraser will touch the top of the float. If the float valve is not sticking, you can easily bounce it around with the pencil. If it doesn't bounce, it's sticking.
My guess is that one or two of the float valves was a little cranky waking up after this cold winter.
As to rebuilding the fuel pump, I think you might be better off sending it out to be rebuilt. My choice would be Ed Fall. He makes his own ethanol proof fuel pump diaphragms. I can lend you a core if need be.
Edward Fall
Email: edfall@vintagewerks.com
Phone: (801) 944-9777
http://www.vintagewerks.com/html/contac ... ation.html
Back to the Ivory Tower I go!
- Neil
'67 912/356D (Ol' Blue)
'82 HP 34C
- Neil
'67 912/356D (Ol' Blue)
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Re: Gas in Oil
It doesn't take much gas in the oil to cause a crankcase detonation, which can result in expensive repairs. I'd change the oil before starting it up.
Dave
Dave
When in doubt .... Gas it!
'58 356A Coupe
'58 356A Coupe