Wheel stud advice please

[James Fitzsimons]

Hi all,

I've removed the studs from my A drums while I'm refurbishing them and would like to use longer studs when I put everything back together. I've no real reason other than I like the look of a bit more thread protruding past the end of the lug nut.

I am planning to run 5.5" wide steel wheels in future as well.

I've measured my current studs and they are 40mm long, which I guess is standard length? Will I have any issues if I change to a 55mm stud, and how do I check that my studs are standard studs and not oversized?

Many thanks!
James

[Dick Weiss]

As long as several threads exist past the lugnut, they're OK since OEM wheel stampings are same thickness. However, if the wheels have thicker sections, you'll need the longer studs.

Dick

[James Fitzsimons]

Thanks Dick,

Do you know how I check if my current studs are standard or oversized?

I want to make sure I order the right thing!

Cheers,
James

[Laurent Clerc]

It depends on the rims currently mounted on your car. Make sure the extra-length studs do not prevent the hubcap to be put back in place with your current rim as you also plan to run 5.5" wide steel wheels in future as well. I mean that if the longer studs length fit with you wider 5.5 rims and are still a bit more protruding past the end of the lug nut, you might not be able to switch back to your current rims AND put back the hubcap. Check that!

[Vic Skirmants]

James; I assume by over-size, you meant the knurled part that presses into the drum. It's probably a 99.999% chance that they are original.

[Albert Tiedemann]

Hi all,

I've no real reason other than I like the look of a bit more thread protruding past the end of the lug nut.

I am planning to run 5.5" wide steel wheels in future as well.

I've measured my current studs and they are 40mm long, which I guess is standard length? Will I have any issues if I change to a 55mm stud Many thanks!
James

Two to Five threads "sticking out" is adequate [mil spec] if the "look" passes.

Also, the 45 mm long stud was a 912 standard.

[Brad Ripley]

The so-called oversize stud has a knurl of 14,90 versus 14,70 std, or 0,20 (.008").

Pushing out the old stud in your press is easy and takes minimal amount of alum with it. BUT installing a new stud is another story; it's very easy to get it crooked. Make a large thick washer with the center hole very slightly over 14,00 mm. From the back of the drum, line up the new stud in the old spline slots and tap in lightly and straight as she goes. On the front side, place your washer over the stud and use a lug nut and wrench to pull the stud thru against the washer. Assuming it's straight, then use your press to push it home.

[Albert Tiedemann]

It depends on the rims currently mounted on your car. Make sure the extra-length studs do not prevent the hubcap to be put back in place with your current rim as you also plan to run 5.5" wide steel wheels in future as well. I mean that if the longer studs length fit with you wider 5.5 rims and are still a bit more protruding past the end of the lug nut, you might not be able to switch back to your current rims AND put back the hubcap. Check that!

The center section of the road wheel is the same for both the 4.5" wide rim and the 5.5" wide rim. If the hub cap fits one, it will fit the other. Your original post mentioned using 55 mm studs. That might be a tad long at the radius of the drum brake mounting [205 mm dia] for the road wheel.

[Laurent Clerc]

Albert is right.

I did take into account that with a 4.5 rim I have 20mm spacer at the rear that I remove with the 5.5 rim. But with the 5.5 rim I can no more put the hubcap because of the studs length. My mistake

[James Fitzsimons]

Hi guys,

Thanks very much for all the advice, it is much appreciated.

I'm not planning to run hub caps on my wheels - I prefer the look without hub caps and the ones I have aren't correct for the car anyway so I'm not too concerned if I can't get them back on again.

I'll double check the stud knurl size (thanks Brad) to make sure they're original and not oversized. I agree with you Vic, I'm pretty confident they will be the original studs but it pays to make sure!

Going slightly off my original topic here and showing my novice ignorance, but why do people use spacers?

Cheers,
James

[Brad Ripley]

The wheel stud length question comes up quite often. Here is what's available from stock (Porsche, and Sway-a-Way). Length is: under the head to end of the threads. The knurl and the unthreaded portion is about 12 - 14 mm, so don't forget to figure that in your measurements.

904-341-671-00 45 mm
PCG-331-671-00 52
901-331-671-01 52
356-331-903-00 55
901-341-671-01 57
911-331-671-00 65
901-331-671-01 77
NLA-331-671-02 80
NLA-331-671-03 100

[Al Zim]

I have longer studs on my 57 coupe. To remove the studs I place a lug nut on the end of the stud slightly above the stud and give it a sharp rap with a 2 pound brass hammer. I install the studs the same way wit two sharp raps with the brass hammer. It is my belief that when you install the rim and tighten it to 75 ft lbs that it will completely seat the stud. REMEMBER THAT YOU WILL NEED A DEEP SOCKET TO REMOVE THE LUG NUTS.
I since switched to 5.5 inch sudrad German chrome wheels which leave a lot of stud protruding so I need the deep socket also. al zim

[Dick Weiss]

When reinstalling wheel studs, you might use a little a little anti-seize on the serations and holes and make sure the serations line up to each other.

Dick