Engine compartment delema

[Pat Wick]

I recently cracked a piston or burnt a valve, i't's in the shop and being tore down now.
I purchased the 64c almost 4 yrs. ago with 17,000 mi. on a rebuilt engine, it was
very quick and smooth. Well, the previous owner install some type of alluminum
foiled sound deading material all around the inside of the engine compartment, it
looked as though it was there for sometime. Anyway as I started a 300 mi. journey
I came up short of my destination, it heated up from the material coming loose and
entering the fan shroud, probably jamming the fan. I shut it down immediately but
the damage was already done.
What would be the correct material that was installed at the factory? What type of adhesive did they use and is this material available today?
Thanks for the input.

Pat

[Dave Wildrick]

I recently cracked a piston or burnt a valve, i't's in the shop and being tore down now.
I purchased the 64c almost 4 yrs. ago with 17,000 mi. on a rebuilt engine, it was
very quick and smooth. Well, the previous owner install some type of alluminum
foiled sound deading material all around the inside of the engine compartment, it
looked as though it was there for sometime. Anyway as I started a 300 mi. journey
I came up short of my destination, it heated up from the material coming loose and
entering the fan shroud, probably jamming the fan. I shut it down immediately but
the damage was already done.
What would be the correct material that was installed at the factory? What type of adhesive did they use and is this material available today?
Thanks for the input.

Pat

Bill Perrone of the Parts Shop in Huntington Beach, CA, makes authentic repro material for the engine compartment. He makes this to order, but it is not cheap. I had to replace mine (on the firewall) due to a carburetor fire last November. My insurance covered the job, which was done by Bill Jones in San Antonio. I believe the cost for the kit was between $350 to $400. The kit included the left and right sides, as well as the firewall section.

[Tony Aguirre]

Pat, Dave is right. Bill's kits are closer to what came from the factory than other suppliers. Think about this though as I did. What level of originality do you want. I took this into account when my engine was being rebuilt by Larry Markham in Burbank, CA, and therefore since mine is a nice street driverr and not a trailer queen, I bought the kit Stoddard's sells. In the judging arena, unless you are full concourse, it won't matter in the wash and shine or street division.

Bill's kit I believe is around the $500+ range and Stoddard's was less than $200. When I finished putting in the Stoddard's kit, I then painted it a rustoleum satin black. When I took my car back to Larry for the engine install, he was absolutely impressed with my results. A lot of people that know and deal with Larry know he's a pretty straight shooter and won't just tell you something unless he sincerely means it. I have absolutely no regrets on the Stoddard's kit. If you want some pictures just let me know.

Buy Bill's if you want total originality, buy Stoddard's otherwise.

FWIW....

[Ben Wainscott]

I installed Bills kit on my 65 SC and have posted tips on the installation. I would use it whether it was a driver or trailer queen. It looks perfect.
Ben
65 SC S/R coupe
130924