Swepco leaks out of Groove Pin in Bearing Housing

[Steve Bryant]

I have the same problem ...leaking oil out the groove pin...i think the pin distort the tube.. making a small crack in the tube...hmm...T

Were you able to stop the leaking with the Wurth "orange sealant"? Or did you have to replace the axle tube (ouch!)?

Steve

[tony apcar]

No i just left it ..and live with it ..the photo shown is a spare tube...i think if i take the pin out it will get worse.and i feel you cant plug it ..the tube has to be dry to make the stuff stick >>>T

[Steve Bryant]

No i just left it ..and live with it ..the photo shown is a spare tube...i think if i take the pin out it will get worse.and i feel you cant plug it ..the tube has to be dry to make the stuff stick >>>T

Do you mean that even if I remove the pin and coat with "orange sealant" it won't work for me? The car is assembled not taken apart. Not sure what you meant by "dry to stick" as it applies to my car.

Thank you,

Steve

[tony apcar]

Steve ..you can try...but the pin hole should be dry..no oil residue..and hope your goop will cure fast ,,T

[Al Zim]

We use Swepco exclusively in all the Porsche cars we service unless specified otherwise. Even when the Swepco is not "whipped to a frenzy" it leaks from my cars. Oil in the engine and transmission are both made into small particles because of the motion of the gears shaft etc.
In your case I would not do anything mechanical to the pin. It will only make things worse. Go to a good parts store (hardware store) purchase a can of either starting fluid and a can of lock tight wicking thread lock and sealer. Since the end is clean, I would spray the either on the area surrounding the pin two or three time from top bottom and inside then use the Locktight to seep into the opening which should seal it to the axle tube. It is my opinion that the wheel bumped a curb at one time in its life and has jarred the housing on the tube.
If you have everything together than lift the axle up and let the oil drain by gently heating under the axle with a light bulb in an aluminum tray or a hot plate. Then (when everything that heats is removed) use the either and the Locktight.

[Steve Bryant]

Al,

Thanks. I had decided not to remove the pin because I later found that someone in the past put what looks like J-B Weld Epoxy on the bottom of the pin (only on the driver’s side). No leaking there, just the top of the pin. I like your idea though and will try it on both sides.

But, I don’t think I should be spraying anything “inside” the axle tube because it’s on the car with the axle installed. I do have the bearing cover and brake backing plate off the car. The axle is lifted higher at the outside end, with a jack under the shock, to keep oil from leaking out.

I’m not sure what you mean by “heating under the axle with a light bulb in an aluminum tray”?

Thank you,

Steve

[Steve Bryant]

Also, would that be Loctite® 220TM Threadlocker–Medium Strength/Wicking/Blue or Loctite® 290TM Threadlocker–High Strength/Wicking/Green?

Thanks,

Steve

[Vic Skirmants]

I thought Green was the only wicking one?

[Jeffrey Leeds]

Me too.

[Steve Bryant]

Ok, I will get the Green one.

Thanks Guys,

Steve

[Vic Skirmants]

I'm not too sure it will wick through oil.

[Steve Bryant]

Guys,

I should take the pin out. I shouldn’t take the pin out. Use wicking Loctite. Don’t use wicking Loctite. I'm confused!

What to do? Maybe I should just plug them with J-B Weld Epoxy? That sure doesn’t leak!

Your thoughts.

Steve

[Jeffrey Leeds]

The wicking (green) Loctite works great for its intended purposes, but the area does need to be clean. Not surgically clean, but at least brake cleaner clean. JB will work, but what if you ever need to reverse it ???

[Steve Bryant]

The wicking (green) Loctite works great for its intended purposes, but the area does need to be clean. Not surgically clean, but at least brake cleaner clean. JB will work, but what if you ever need to reverse it ???

Jeffery,

I was planning on cleaning with brake cleaner clean before using the green Loctite. I really don’t want to use JB Weld, that’s just something a previous owner did or had done for him.

I realize the JB Weld would have to be drilled out if the driver’s side needed to be removed. But that would only be if there was something wrong with the bearing housing or axle tube. Those parts seem ok now. Maybe if the trans was getting an overhaul they would have to be separated. Hope I won’t have to go there.

Trans seems very nice as far as I can tell, but it does have 194,000 miles on it. I wonder how long a trans that is well taken care of can last from the original factory install? Anyone care to give some mileage numbers?

Thank you

Steve

[Vic Skirmants]

You're making it sound like JB Weld is indestructable. It's great stuff, but if you need to remove it, a hit with a chisel or punch will easily shatter it for removal.