door light switch

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Doug McDonnell
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door light switch

#1 Post by Doug McDonnell »

I am having difficulty installing new door light switches in my 64 Coupe They seem to be too long to fit in from behind. Any hints or advice would be appreciated.Switch is the one currently sold by Stoddards NLA 615-601-06 Thanks Doug
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door light switch 001.JPG
1965 356C 2000 BMW 740i Sport 1967 Honda CL77 There is never enough time to do it right, but always enough time to do it over.

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Frederick Adler
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Re: door light switch

#2 Post by Frederick Adler »

My T6, 1962 had these broken ones in it so I found the same types at Sierra Madre.

http://www.sierramadrecollection.com/st ... ail&p=3798

They say T5 but that was what was in it so I went path of least resistance. Just snap in.

WilliamVaughan
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Re: door light switch

#3 Post by WilliamVaughan »

The switch pictured looks right to me.
Use nimble fingers to form the wire a little before inserting the bullet terminal into the switch then use 'em to insert the switch into the hinge from behind. Then you will find that the new paint on the hinge prevents the switch body from achieving a good chassis ground connection so the interior lights won't go on.

Chris Anderson
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Re: door light switch

#4 Post by Chris Anderson »

Did mine a couple weeks ago, yes the switch looks correct. I had the same level of frustration for what should have been a very easy task. The slight angle needed because of the tight dimensions of the cavity created just a bit of interference in the hole of the hinge. The number of spacer plates also will impact the clearance, of course both of mine had one on the top. The easiest solution would have been to loosen the bolts on hinge plate but I had spend a bit too much time getting this area to look good after I had painted the car. This would have been the easy solution because touching up the bolts is not the end of the world. Another possibility would have involved increasing the hole size slightly. I ended up doing something a bit unorthodox, i carefully bent the bullet female receptacle to create a 45 degree angle, one felt a little weak so supported it with a bit of solder. This worked great, installation was easy. In retrospect, loosening the bolts may have been the easy answer but at least now I know that I can take these in and out if needed in the future.
Chris Anderson
1963 Cabriolet

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Doug McDonnell
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Re: door light switch

#5 Post by Doug McDonnell »

Thanks Chris,I figured I might have too bend the bullett connecter-there doesn't seem to be any way it will get into the hole from the back otherwise. I guess that I will just have to be careful.
1965 356C 2000 BMW 740i Sport 1967 Honda CL77 There is never enough time to do it right, but always enough time to do it over.

Geoff Fleming
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Re: door light switch

#6 Post by Geoff Fleming »

Chris,
Your solution of bending the connector was the better choice. You never want to loosen the hinge plate bolts after the door gap is set properly and the car is painted. You will be surprised at just how difficult it can be to re-capture the original position. If you inadvertently move the hinge there is a great possibilty of the door edge rubbing against the fender lip, which will chip the paint.

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Doug McDonnell
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Re: door light switch

#7 Post by Doug McDonnell »

OK I bent the female end gently maybe 30 degrees almost got it in and female end snapped off. Another broken part. Any more ideas out there?
1965 356C 2000 BMW 740i Sport 1967 Honda CL77 There is never enough time to do it right, but always enough time to do it over.

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Mike Wilson
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Re: door light switch

#8 Post by Mike Wilson »

I just installed the same switch on a '63 cab but, it was much easier since the door was off for repairs.

Mike Wilson
Lomita, CA
'63 B coupe
Mike Wilson
Lomita, CA
'63 B coupe

Brian Jones
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Re: door light switch

#9 Post by Brian Jones »

An assistant with small hands and hopefully long fingers such as the wife, kids or perhaps the neighbors kids if yours are all grown up also can be of great help to wiggle the switch in and also save a lot of cussing, it worked for me!

Brian Jones #8448

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Doug McDonnell
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Re: door light switch

#10 Post by Doug McDonnell »

I had an MFP who weighs 105 pounds try and she was no more successful than I was. Still considering ways to accomplish this final wiring issue on my restoration. If I figure out a way I will post it.
1965 356C 2000 BMW 740i Sport 1967 Honda CL77 There is never enough time to do it right, but always enough time to do it over.

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Jan Balder
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Re: door light switch

#11 Post by Jan Balder »

When I renewed those switches I tied a thin rope to the pushbutton ( the moving part), guided the other end of the rope through the hole, and "fished" the light switch in place.
This went pretty straightforward, and for me it was the only way to accomplish this annoying task after many failures.
Succes !

Jan.
Jan Balder

E Rutherford
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Re: door light switch

#12 Post by E Rutherford »

It will fit correctly without bending anything. The great thing about these, are they are made correctly. Unlike their predecessor which required a separate ground to make it function correctly. Also the recommended switch from Sierra Madre is for a A -T5 car, not a T6/C.

Fitting this switch in is the same as getting the ZF steering box in or out. All of a sudden you say "how'd I do da" :shock:

Happy Holidays to all.

ed
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Doug McDonnell
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Re: door light switch

#13 Post by Doug McDonnell »

My car must have less room than everyone elses.No way it was going in with even small string attached with super tape. I finally managed to get the passenger side one in by duct tapeing the plunger in the down position thus making the switch shorter,then getting the duct tape off with a dental pic using a mechanic's mirror to see what I was doing. Next will be a real trip trying to insert the wire. Taking a break before I try again.
1965 356C 2000 BMW 740i Sport 1967 Honda CL77 There is never enough time to do it right, but always enough time to do it over.

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Martin Benade
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Re: door light switch

#14 Post by Martin Benade »

If you need to do the second switch, if the car was painted, be sure the hole is not too small in diameter due to layers of paint and primer- scrape it out first. I was surprised how undersize the holes were on my car after painting.
Cleveland Ohio
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56 VW
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04 Sienna

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Greg Scallon
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Re: door light switch

#15 Post by Greg Scallon »

Doug,
If there really is no way you'll get it in there without bending the connector like you describe, you could trim it a bit off the top so it's not quite as tall but will still hold the male bullet. That way you won't have to bend the connector so much when you squeeze it in. Just a thought.
-Greg
'58 Speedster
'56 VW Deluxe Microbus 

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