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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2013 1:21 am 
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Joined: Sat May 17, 2008 3:49 pm
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Location: Schaumburg, IL
Check for oil cooler leaks, replace o rings? Check fan for loose potential grenading blades? replace oil filter flex lines and crush gaskets on the oil tee off the crankcase?

Instead of screwing around with wire on the upper engine bolt near the starter, weld a piece of rod to the head of the bolt to prevent rotation. Someone on the board was making them, but it takes less tan a minute with the mig and you'll never curse at engine removal again.

Kevin Murray
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2013 8:58 am 
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I have to agree with Rick- his idea is just as important as the more car-centric ones.

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PostPosted: Fri May 31, 2013 6:52 pm 
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david meyers wrote:
> Hello, I'm reaching out to all the 356 "Veterans", on behalf of
> first-timers like myself who could use some tips/advice, do's and don'ts, etc ,during
> or after this process.
>
> Although my 64C has given "birth" before ...and I will have a some what
> experienced "mid-wife" assisting, I'm a little nervous about being a first
> time "daddy"...like when the engine pops out , what if I don't snip the
> fuel line just right and she "bleeds" to death???
>
> okok, I know I'm sick<big grin here> I was thinking of things like throw-out
> bearing/clutch, doing both heads even though I only seem to have only one leaky
> exhaust valve ,etc,etc
> ....I just don't want to kick myself after the engine goes back in with a
> "coulda/woulda/shoulda," ....it would have been so easy and much cheaper
> while out.
>
> many thanks, in advance to, AND from the members like me,
> I haven't seen any threads on this subject , or are there?
> david

Dave,
Get behind the wheel and make motor sounds and pretend your shifting that way you wont miss not being able to drive it while the motor is out.

Back under my rock I go
Bob Lee
346 Registry member 16135
356 Club of SC
912 Registry member 5888-R

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PostPosted: Fri May 31, 2013 8:57 pm 
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Location: mid Michigan
You can buy a bolt replacement..for one of the engine bolts... replace the one that you have to snake your arm up over the transmission.
One of the vendors / guys on this list makes & sells a custom bolt... it won't turn as you take the nut off with a long wrench down the back side between the trans and engine.
... this bolt replacment is money-in-the bank (trust me).

Tom
www.project356.com

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 21, 2013 11:28 am 
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Location: Washington State
When doing the trans mounts, it is only two more bolts to remove the hoop and give it a good cleaning. Makes the area look neat and tidy.


Attachments:
011 (Large).JPG
011 (Large).JPG [ 193.14 KiB | Viewed 11427 times ]

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Last edited by Paul Hatfield on Tue Jan 21, 2014 4:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 21, 2013 6:01 pm 
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Paul!!!
You'll never get the engine back in with the upper bolts in wrong!!!

OK, I see you changed the photo. To avoid confusing others, that is correct.
Carry on.

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Last edited by Vic Skirmants on Tue Nov 04, 2014 8:29 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 21, 2013 6:13 pm 
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Ok Eagle-Eye! That was years ago and I forgot that I later changed the orientation.
Jez- Can't get anything by you.
Paul

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Last edited by Paul Hatfield on Tue Jan 21, 2014 4:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 21, 2013 6:19 pm 
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Paul- What Vic means is that the upper through bolts that hold the trans mounts to the trans are installed incorrectly. The head needs to be inside the bell housing and the nut outside bearing against the mount. The flywheel will interfere with the bolts the way you have it now.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 21, 2013 6:22 pm 
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Yes, it is changed. See my post above.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 21, 2013 8:36 pm 
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Nag, nag, nag. :P

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 6:06 am 
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Joined: Tue May 21, 2013 2:19 pm
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Roger Shapiro wrote:
Let's sub title this thread "what is not so easy with engine IN the car"
First choice - get those two upper bolts to stay in place whilst replacing the engine. Hose clamp and glue, weld on washer, wire the two bolts to the trans housing.
Second - install a full flow oil filter - you will never regret it.
Thirdly - redo the engine walls with new "insulation." It is a definite PITA to do with the engine in.
Hope I'm not to late
Roger Shapiro


Hi, I am a first timer too and at this time my engine ist out. I have to remove all insulation in engine and luggage compartment. My question is, where can I find equally insulation quality for replacement?


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 9:05 am 
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Check the Classified section. I think "The Parts Shop" has it.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 11:48 am 
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Kevin Murray wrote:
....Instead of screwing around with wire on the upper engine bolt near the starter, weld a piece of rod to the head of the bolt to prevent rotation. Someone on the board was making them, but it takes less tan a minute with the mig and you'll never curse at engine removal again.....


I've got to remember to do that this time. I usually use vice grips on the driver's side and get by with just fiddling on the passenger side.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 02, 2013 10:09 am 
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vic skirmants wrote:
Check the Classified section. I think "The Parts Shop" has it.



This parts are to expensive, building an outlaw and no concours winner. Thank you anyway for your reply.

Anybody with cheaper solution?


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 12:26 am 
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vic skirmants wrote:
Paul!!!
You'll never get the engine back in with the upper bolts in wrong!!!



I assume my top two bolts are backwards then? Or did Paul change his picture? To think I just stumbled on this post, likely saved me hours!! Thanks!


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DSC_0615.jpg [ 114.46 KiB | Viewed 11385 times ]

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