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PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 11:25 am 
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Change them to match the photo of mine.
I did change the photo so that it would show correctly. Sorry for any confusion.
-Paul

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 12:16 pm 
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I'll change them to match your new photo instead of after 4 hours of trying to push the engine in mine but leave the photos for others. Thanks again!

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 9:10 am 
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Install a 3rd brake light in the now empty engine lid which will allow you to run the wiring free of engine interference. They are almost invisible when not in use but could save the car and a lot more work when they are on.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2014 4:17 pm 
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Location: Birmingham, Alabama
Paul Hatfield wrote:
Change them to match the photo of mine.
I did change the photo so that it would show correctly. Sorry for any confusion.
-Paul


This is confusing... please post a picutre showing the correct upper bolt/nut arrangement/orientation. Many anticipated thanks?


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2014 8:07 pm 
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Miguel-
The picture of mine on page 2 of this string is the correct way to install them.
-Paul

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2014 12:26 pm 
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Awesome, many thanks Paul

So, the picture from Nathan is also correct - just checking?


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2014 12:33 pm 
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Nathan's photo is not correct. The top two bolts in his photo are wrong. Reference my photo for correct installation.
Paul

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2014 3:09 pm 
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OOOOOPS, my bad, I enlarged the image - I could not see the difference before - to realize what you mean... the top two bolts go from the inside out keeping the nut/stud outside contrary to the other four where the nuts are inside the bell. Thanks again!


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PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2015 9:16 pm 
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Maybe Adam (administrator) could remove the incorrect photo?

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PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2015 12:49 pm 
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Things to do - don't ask how I know. Change the generator bearings (about a $30 job, 6202 shielded not sealed) and check the brushes. Clean and check the starter.

good luck
Doug

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2016 5:53 am 
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Nice thread. I am about to do this in a week or so. I can drop my 901 engine in 30 mins. Not sure the 356 is as fast, but it looks similar in principle. With a garage hoist and a made to purpose trolley it should be a matter of following the steps so well outlined elsewhere on this Forum. The transmission nose seal is that a 'do it while its out' thing with the 356?

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PostPosted: Thu May 12, 2016 1:53 pm 
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Mervyn Hyde wrote:
Nice thread. I am about to do this in a week or so. I can drop my 901 engine in 30 mins. Not sure the 356 is as fast, but it looks similar in principle. With a garage hoist and a made to purpose trolley it should be a matter of following the steps so well outlined elsewhere on this Forum. The transmission nose seal is that a 'do it while its out' thing with the 356?

The only drop-the-engine issue I run into is loosening the upper engine bolts and holding the upper bolt against rotation. Once you have the engine out you can drill the bolt heads and press in a pin that extends ¾" or so to stop rotation (or buy a pair pre-made from Albert Tiedemann). However, on an engine that doesn't have that fix, it might be worth finding a magnetic 17mm wrench designed for VWs to hold the bolt while you are loosening the nut from the engine compartment side. Here is one on Pelican Parts website: http://ww.pelicanparts.com/Porsche/cata ... 6_pg85.htm

Vice grips also work.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 06, 2017 4:34 pm 
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I found this post and have a few related questions any information or opinions regarding this would be greatly appreciated. I have the engine and trans out of my 56' and I started to detail the engine compartment and the undercarriage. To my surprise after stripping what turned out to be the original undercoating I have discovered pristine factory sheetmetal I'm wondering what to coat it with after it is completely stripped? Of course I could re undercoat it but it occurs to me that the metal is so straight and original perhaps just black paint would "show off" the condition the best, frankly it would look great polished and clear coated. This is a treatment that I have never seen used. I guess my question is what would be the best coating to put on these surfaces? Keep in mind that although not a constant show car it is never driven in rain or in climate weather so any protective coating would probably do for protection. Thanks for any help information or opinion anyone might have.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 07, 2017 8:07 am 
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Griff:
Check with a local resto shop for what primer that they now use to rust-proof unibodies before paint and assembly. In case there isn't a Porsche shop near you, any shop that does early Mustangs or Plymouth/Dodge musclecars would know this, as they were all unibody. I think that it may be a urethane primer, but ask the pros. I speak from personal experience - this modern stuff really prevents rust if done properly.

Consider stripping back to metal and applying the primer. Undercoating alone on a metal body is not adequate protection, as many of us in the hobby have found out.
Best,
=rds

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 07, 2017 11:36 am 
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Ronald, Thanks for the info I will research that. How about the thought of using clear coat to expose the shiney metal? Ive seen a few Spyder 550s that do this and it looks great. Thanks

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