Condenser life span

[David Jones]

As far as I know all ignition capacitors are around the same value. 600 volts and 0.22 to 0.33 mF so any Delco Remy capacitor for use on ignition distributors running a Kettering system will work. There are a lot out there from $2 to $20 so plenty to choose from.

[Mervyn Hyde]

There are lots of alternates http://www.kakapart.com/oem/partscrossi ... 90702.html

However, all are probably the same and subject to the vagaries of modern manufacturing and design.

[Curt Crowell]

And there's the "minus/minus/minus rule for points: If the Minus contact (the grounded contact) is Minus material (Has a pit), the capacitor is Minus capacitance. Curt
P.S. Condenser is an archaic word coined about the time of Michael Faraday when nobody knew much about electricity. C

[Mervyn Hyde]

There has to be a better alternative for reliability with 6V systems.

[Dave Wildrick]

There has to be a better alternative for reliability with 6V systems.

A better alternative is the 123 ignition, which requires no condensor/capacitor and is reliable.
I have one on each of my C coupes.

[Paul Ahnell]

"There has to be a better alternative for reliability with 6V systems."

Yeah. Easy. Bosch fires the QA Program Manager and gets one who is competent.

[Thomas Frisardi]

"There has to be a better alternative for reliability with 6V systems."

This is why I asked about a Delco equivalent. Old Chevrolets were 6 volt. Maybe other cars were, too, but I only know that the old Chevies. It's not just capacitance and voltage spec, I am also wondering about the fit, in terms of size of the can, length of the pigtail. Has anyone found a Delco equivalent and actually used it successfully in a 356?

[Mervyn Hyde]

I can't see Bosh investing much in condenser quality as they are such a low volume item for them and it is easy to farm these aspects out to less monitored constructors. The alternative parts list above shows a couple of Delco alternatives, but I have not heard of direct experience with them here. Technically they should work, as should ones from old Citroens, and so on. Ultimately, the 123 may be the best way forward and the ones I have seen fitted are working very well and retain some 'original' appearance. There are enough things to go wrong with these old cars as it is, and if we can eliminate a few of them we reduce the complex of risks and increase the benefits of driving.

[Martin Benade]

On the other hand an old leftover set of points and condensor in the glove compartment can get you home, where a problem with the 123 will require a tow truck. I am not sure which one is the better choice.

[David Baugh]

Why are people hung up on finding a condenser for a 6V system? I wasn't aware that these things are voltage-sensitive. Any ignition condenser that will physically fit should work just fine. You may need to change the connector on the end of the wire, though.

No need to call a tow truck when a 123 (or other electronic component ignition) fails. Simply carry a cheap 009 distributor in the glove box that's all timed and ready to go. Slip it in, and you're back on the road. Not familiar with the 123 system. Would it also require carrying a spare coil? The Pertronics does not. Incidentally, wasn't the 009 developed for 12V VW engines? With the exception of its advance curve, it is perfectly compatible with the 6V 356. Back in the day, prior to converting my car to 12V, I used one with a modified advance for ten years and never changed the condenser.

My memory isn't what it used to be, but I seem to recall that the condensers on the old 6V American cars were mounted to the ignition coil, as opposed to the side of the distributor. If that's an acceptable way to do it, mount your spare condenser to the coil bracket, leaving it disconnected. If the one on the distributor fails, snip it's wire, and connect the spare to the negative side of the coil. There are many ways to skin a cat.

Dave

[Dave Wildrick]

Not familiar with the 123 system. Would it also require carrying a spare coil?

No, no backup coil required. I have tried my 123s with very old, intermediate age , and new coils and see no difference.
But, like you, I always carry a spare distributor, an 050, which I bought several of before they were discontinued and could be had for $65 (in about 2001).

[Mervyn Hyde]

I got hold of a capacitance meter and measured the ones I have. The GB 505/Bosch NOS ones I picked up recently measured exactly 22microfarads (right on spec), the electronics store solid state film capacitor I bought measured the same and the 6-month old one I removed from the car (Turkish model) fluctuated from 0.0 to over 50.0 microfarads.

[Mervyn Hyde]

Just to round this off. I test fitted a 'HotSpark' ignition system and can report that it did not operate with my 6V system. Despite following their instructions and 'problem' issues additional information, it did not work at all on my 356. The magnetic 'sender' on the distributor shaft was not inducing spark at any advance setting on the 6V system. It is on the return to sender list. Back to the points and spares!

[Bill Oldham]

Following up on Mark Roth's suggestion about Gammatronix.
(https://gammatronixltd.com/epages/bae94 ... ER%206v%22)
I emailed them about their product and based on their response, decided it was for me. It is an electronic trigger for the coil which does not use a capacitor (condenser). It uses the points for timing but does not pass the coil current thru them. so the points do not erode (but of course the phenolic cam follower wears, depending on how well you keep the distributor cam lubed. What I like:
1) the hook up is quite standard except that the capacitor is disconnected and the electronic unit is inserted into the connection between the distributor and the coil.
2) electronic controlled discharge for the spark energy-time profile
3) 30 seconds to switch back to factory setup if you think there is a problem (plug the distributor directly into the coil, bypassing the gammatronig electronics and reconnect the capacitor).

So I installed the unit on TUB BLUE (a slightly different unit since BLUE is 12V) , and another on my 55 TF (also 12V) : both run great.
With this solution we run without the unreliable condenser, but can immediately switch back to a standard factory configuration if we suspect a problem with the electronics. (To enable this fast switch I inserted a spade connector in the capacitor connection, making is possible to just plug it in or not.) Thus I am running 21st century electronics on this 20th century vehicle, with the ability to switch back in seconds to the 19th century ignition system that it originally inherited. I will revive the topic if there are failures other updates.
bill

[Mervyn Hyde]

Will follow this with interest Bill.

Cheers

Merv