shift linkage question

[Richard Viren]

Thanks Larry
I had read that info before from Mr. Romano.
"Cut the bushing at a 45 degree angle (one cut)...use lots of grease and a little "muscle power" and just "scootch" it around the shift tube and metal ring...till both ends meet and are also still in the phenolic "groove". Works everytime without taking everthing apart. I hope this makes sense. (Submitted by Robert Rauscher)"

MY point about reading information without pictures leaves me with a lot of questions that are unclear. I'm sure the writer was describing exactly what to do based on experience but without providing pictures, the process it remains unclear. Another aspect when reading is that the "community" does not use the same language. Bill says bushing, parts book says friction ring, Stoddars calls it guide ring. Are they all referring to the same thing or different parts? Thanks for your and everyones advice I will extrapolate all the data and continue. I have enclosed photos of my attempt to remove the shift shaft from the tunnel, with an unsuccessful effort.
NOTE: photos are in reverse order........
Richard Viren
60 Coupe

[Jim Breazeale]

Richard

Your shift linkage is not original to your car. Your shift linkage and shift rod are from a T6. That conversion was done by a PO and is a very good upgrade. You also have a shift lock and it's collar that is original to your car that is attached to the shift rod. You need to remove the collar by removing the roll pin the goes through the collar the the shift rod. It is easily removed with a punch and a hammer. Once the roll pin is removed, you will be able to slide the collar rearward, while pulling the rod forward until it comes off the back of the rod. Then you will have the clearance required to get the rod out of the tunnel. Your shift lock is a very rare item and is seen in only a very small number of T5 cars. It is not the same lock as T6 cars. Take care not to damage it or loose any of it's parts. The removal of your shift rod should take about 10 minutes.

Regards

[Larry Coreth]

Richard,
I appreciate your desire for pictures to compensate for the diversity of nomenclature. I am stonewalled often with the same problem and I've been working on 356's for several decades. This is why I promote the Factory manual as he pictures are invaluable for the novice and us old farts with failing memory ! Here is a sample:

[Richard Viren]

Jim and Larry
Thanks for sharing your institutional knowledge. I was able to get the shift rod out and now I will remove the pin, clean and wait for the new parts.
Richard Viren
60 Coupe

[Miguel Antonetti]

Still nobody showed a picture of the shift shaft with the support ring/bushing installed, please...? I'm next in line and want to see how it looks. Is the bushing flexible or rigid?

[Ron LaDow]

Miguel,
The ring bushing is part #2 in the sectional drawing (Larry's post). With moderate heat, it becomes flexible enough to be deformed and forced into the metal bracket.

[Miguel Antonetti]

Many thanks Ron!

I saw the sectional drawing and ordered the part/bushing yesterday as well as the shifter cup and half moons for the coupling... I just saw that "old" thread where Richard was asking for pictures... and I know that helps a lot... the drawing is clear as the manual is also... just a real picture of the thing in there would be nice. I've never seen one installed, always seen a bare hole... BUT the bushing is in the mail so stay tunned for a couple of days and it'll be in there.

This forum/Registry is GREAT!

[Doug McDonnell]

Miguel Here is a picture stolen from another thread. Photo by Frederick Alder: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=30854&hilit=shift+bushing But please note that guide ring bracket is on the wrong side of the shift lock collar. Don't want to confuse anyone. Just to show the guide ring installed.

[Miguel Antonetti]

Outstanding! Got it, and many thanks!
I received the parts yesterday - and got my answer - so, I'm tackle it tonite and tomorrow. That shift rod guide feels pretty stiff to go in there w/o taking the hole thing out from the tunnel, stay tuned...

[Doug McDonnell]

Heat it up in some water in the microwave and it will help.Or if you want to do it the hard way like I did just remove the roll pin and collar and then everything comes out easily.

[Ron LaDow]

Outstanding! Got it, and many thanks!
I received the parts yesterday - and got my answer - so, I'm tackle it tonite and tomorrow. That shift rod guide feels pretty stiff to go in there w/o taking the hole thing out from the tunnel, stay tuned...

I'm told you can fit the bushing by cutting it and sort of threading it in with the shaft still there; I've never tried it.
Otherwise, it's dis- and re-assembly.

[Dick Weiss]

All,

I forgot to mention that if the 2-little clamping lugs to hold the guide-ring plate to the tunnel are loosened or removed,
they must be reinstalled correctly as they're NOT symetrical in shape! Be sure to look before disassembly as they fit
just 1-way to clamp the lip on the tunnel.

Dick

[Miguel Antonetti]

OK guys, after I removed the shifter bracket and look and thought... and look... and thought... and evaluated the options/time... I decided to cut the bushing like the picture (about 220*) and inserted it around the rod in place. Being able to have the slack of the missing section of bushing - see other picture - wasn't that bad.
I honestly don't see, the way it fits in there, that it is going to move at all. Mainly considering that there was nothing before, just the shift road sitting on the guide ring metal. BTW, I also replaced the ball socket. This route took me a couple of hours and "fairly friendly" instead of, what I calculated a couple of messy/aggravating days. May be at a later date, I tackle it the right way - may be not!
I know it is not the nicest or purist job but it worked... took the car for a ride and WOW!!! it shifts like a dream... Thank you guys for the support and assistance.

[Wes Bender]

If you made one cut in the bushing on a 45 degree angle, you could then compress it sufficiently by twisting it to "thread" it into the hole (as mentioned by previous posters). That would give a full circle bushing instead of the 220 degree one that you now have. That one will work for a while, but the wear on the edges will probably cause you to have to replace it sooner.

Not meaning to insult you at all, but your fix is just a bit "shade tree".

Cheers,
Wes

[Doug McDonnell]

As my dad who was a mechanic used to say "There's never enough time to do it right but always enough time to do it over."