shift linkage question

[Richard Viren]

I'm ordering a guide ring do I need to order clamp plate also?
( 695-424-213-00 Clamp plate, 2 req'd. Fits 356BT5, 356BT6, 356C )
How do I install this guide ring since it looks like the guide ring bracket will not come off the shaft?

Richard
1960 coupe

[Dick Weiss]

Richard,

There should be a clamp piece on each side of the guide bracket-to-the-tunnel opening (is 1-missing, or was it found in the tunnel due to its bolt got loose?).

The guide bushing installation can be frustration w/some language involved,
but I cut the bushing @ an angle, trim off 1-of the lips enough (NOT all if it)
so it can be slipped over the shift rod and 'pushed' into the bracket's hole--you may need a small screwdriver to 'help it', and turn the cut to the top as the rod is always
pressed downward by the lever's spring, and add a little silicon grease.
(Once the bushing is captive, it'll stay there)

Dick

[Ron LaDow]

Richard,
You might do a search.
I and others don't like the 'cut-and-slip' method. Dick and others do.

[Richard Viren]

You talked about a clamp piece, see my picture, this is all there is. I will look into the tunnel for something, but a picture of an assembled one would be nice. If the clamp piece is not found in the tunnel, who would sell such a piece? Gentlemen thanks for the info.
Richard
60 coupe
Keep The Air Cooled Faith

I had previously sent emails to others with no replies, I really do appreciate you taking the time to educate me about the guide ring and associated parts.

[Vic Skirmants]

Richard; I see one clamp piece; the rectangular part that the small bolt goes into. If you have one on the other side, you are not missing anything.

[john pratt]

I used the "cut and slip" method as did Dick and I can vouch for the correctness of his reference to "language" being involved. In fact, I think I invented a few new words of my own. Just ask my cat.
And thanks, Dick, for the tip on placing the cut on top. I'm not sure where I put it but now I'm going to open it up and take a look. If needed, a slight adjustment should not warrant another trip to confession!

[Richard Viren]

Mr. Skirman the other clamp is also there to hold the plate.

Mr. Pratt if you are opening up to look at the guide ring can you take a picture so I and other who have yet to purchase the
"356 Porsche restoration for DUMMIES" in paperback
can see what the tunnel secrets look like when installed and functioning properly.

Thanks
Richard Viren
60 coupe

[Chris Anderson]

Hi Richard,
I had a bushing fail on the coupler so replaced the bushings as well as the guide ring. I used the followind as a guide: http://porsche356registry.org/resources ... hment.html

Basically it sounds more difficult than reality. I elected to remove the rod so I could clean all parts and place the new guide bushing on the ring. I suspect that parting the guide ring can facilitate an easier instal and may not impact the longevity or performance of the part but I found that removing the shift rod was actually not challenging just remember to mark the original positions of rod to coupler, remove drivers pedal board and with a creative twist you are out. Heating the guide ring bushing does also help.

Before the project the car shifted fine but was even more vague than I had remembered with other 356's I had owned. It is an amazing transformation with all new bushings, I have found that projects that improve performance are always more fun, this was fun.

[Jim Breazeale]

Mr. Skirman the other clamp is also there to hold the plate.

Mr. Pratt if you are opening up to look at the guide ring can you take a picture so I and other who have yet to purchase the
"356 Porsche restoration for DUMMIES" in paperback
can see what the tunnel secrets look like when installed and functioning properly.

Thanks
Richard Viren
60 coupe

Richard

Your car is equipped with a shift lock (the funny looking collar just behind the guide ring) on the shift rod. Your linkage may have been updated with T6 linkage. Please take a couple of closeups of the end of the "peace pipe" Your tunnel in opened up and will make removint all the linkage a breeze. Do not cut the bushing. You will be able to do it after removing the linkage and the shift lock collar. I'm not a fan of cutting the bushing. Follow the advice of the previous poster and do it the right way. The shift lock collar is removed by punshing out the roll pin with a proper sized punch and then sliding the collar off the shift rod. If your linkage is the original stuff, your shiuft lock is a very valuable and rare part! More pictures of your shifter will reveal what you have.

Regards

[john pratt]

I did try removing the shift rod shaft but ran into a problem because an earlier genius used a jack under the floorboard about 18 inches ahead of the coupler linkage under the tunnel and I have a slight bulge upward in that area. I did need to replace the coupler bushings so I had to disconnect the rear anyway (be sure to mark the position before you disconnect). But when I started sliding the shaft into the drivers floorboard area, the aft end of the shaft started hitting the floor where it was bulged and I could not get it out, so I was left with the cutting method. I agree that the preferred method would be to remove the shaft, of course.
That said Richard, I'll be glad to provide a photo of the bushing in place when I open her up to check the position of the cut.

[Larry Coreth]

Richard,
As a starting point I would suggest reading in the B/C manual pages R69-71, SR-2and TRA-5 thru 7. This will give you the basics, then you can ask for help on the nuances of getting the shift rod in and out.

[Jim Breazeale]

Everybody

Let's not forget that Richard's car has no floor in it(that is why he can take pictures from the bottom of the car). His shift rod will come out with no trouble! I wish all of them were as easy as his will be.

Regards

[Richard Viren]

Gentleman
I did try to remove the shift rod and it would not come out. I will take pictures of the process and try again but it seemed to be wedged. Next time I will also look in the tunnel to see if Im hung up on anything.
Thanks to all for the time you have spend educating me.
Richard Viren

[Richard Viren]

I have looked through the 1960 owners manual, the Porsche technical manual by Efrink, the Porsche owners handbook and service manual by Clymer, and read the Technical Restoration guide article on B/C shifter Versions by Mr. Brezeale, looked through Mr. Rolands Restored by hand, Do it your self restoration by Mr. Kellogg, and looked at the Sierra Madre part manuel. Not sure what B/C manual I have missed buying but it is probably one of several I should invest in.
Richard

[Larry Coreth]

It is the factory manual for 365B's and 356C's without which no 356 owner should be without. It will not contain all the info necessary to restore or maintain a 356 but it is the basis from which all the others draw their initial info. After all who should know more about their product than the guys who designed and made it ! See the Registry website under Resources, literature, Bill Romano for a pdf version or Charlie White for a hard copy.