shift linkage question

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Doug McDonnell
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Re: shift linkage question

#46 Post by Doug McDonnell »

Use your dremel with a cutting disc and be careful not to cut your fingers. Or just use a small hack saw. Picture stolen from another thread to show the angle of the cut.
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Last edited by Doug McDonnell on Fri Oct 22, 2021 2:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1965 356C 2000 BMW 740i Sport 1967 Honda CL77 There is never enough time to do it right, but always enough time to do it over.

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bruce tuffli
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Re: shift linkage question

#47 Post by bruce tuffli »

Thanks, Doug.

Hugo Karasawa
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Re: shift linkage question

#48 Post by Hugo Karasawa »

Heated with hot water. It broke while trying to insert it.
Will try it again with a new one.
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Martin Benade
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Re: shift linkage question

#49 Post by Martin Benade »

Hugo, which location is that for? Doug’s picture from 2019 shows a bushing that goes near the shifter, not in the coupling that he has it sitting by. If you are doing the coupling side bushings I have heard part of the outer edge (flange?) sometimes needs a bit of filing
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Ken Tuvman
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Re: shift linkage question

#50 Post by Ken Tuvman »

Martin Benade wrote: Sat Jun 19, 2021 4:05 pm Hugo, which location is that for? Doug’s picture from 2019 shows a bushing that goes near the shifter, not in the coupling that he has it sitting by. If you are doing the coupling side bushings I have heard part of the outer edge (flange?) sometimes needs a bit of filing
Last week a friend and I replaced the rubber donut coupler in my '61 356B with the modern version (shown above #46) - the bushings were tight and we used a lathe to take them down about .002 until they'd go - we used a drill press with a rod and a washer to press the into place - worked well.
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Hugo Karasawa
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Re: shift linkage question

#51 Post by Hugo Karasawa »

It is part 40.
Forgot to tell you, shifter rod is out of the car.

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Martin Benade
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Re: shift linkage question

#52 Post by Martin Benade »

I thought that went in easily if the shift rod was out.
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Re: shift linkage question

#53 Post by Hugo Karasawa »

Probably it was too brittle, I had it in my stash of parts for several years.

Dick Weiss
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Re: shift linkage question

#54 Post by Dick Weiss »

I've replaced a partial guide ring bushing (see the photo) several months ago vs the 45 degree angle cut which I used to do.
Only the bottom 1/2 or so is sufficient since once it's in the guide, it won't go anywhere due to the spring on the shift lever
is pressuring downward @ all times--just add a little grease to reduce wear.
I'm about to fix a 912 shifting problem this week and will do it the same way--if needed.
I'll still do it my way vs removing all the other parts.

BTW, there are 2-versions of guide rings--For the later B/C assembly, the ring measures 29 x 34mm, but a guide ring
wasn't measured earlier; There's a difference in lip thicknesses, too.

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Re: shift linkage question

#55 Post by Dick Weiss »

Bruce,
It would always be on the top since it never wears there due to the downward pressure of the shift lever's spring.
Add some grease to prevent wear between the shaft's bottom and guide ring.

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Re: shift linkage question

#56 Post by Craig Colaluca »

For anyone who is reading this and thinking “well I know these smart people are saying that I shouldn’t take the shift rod out and instead I should just cut a slit in this new bushing but I’m a perfectionist and I want to do it the best way possible and I don’t want there to be any slop between the shift rod and the new bushing”.

Well plan to spend a few hours cussing and screaming as you insert and remove and insert the shift rod 6 to 7 times only to find out that the bushing doesn’t really fit well anyway and you were never going to have a tight fitment….just cut the slot in the new bushing.

This is one area Porsche did a much better job with the 911.
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Brett Meyer
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Re: shift linkage question

#57 Post by Brett Meyer »

I just replaced ours for the second time since new .
exact shifter as Hugo's pic early B.
I removed the peace pipe [shifter rod] both times ,
A little work getting the bushing into the housing I do heat it up in hot water but both times everything went together just fine,
Getting the peace pipe all the way in takes a little time ,,lucky to get it 1st try,,
but I enjoy the work involved or any work on my classics just as much as driving them---
I mark the coupler/rod --but a little adjustment for the gears is usually needed.
 '60 Roadster -87234- Mom & Dad purchased in 1960



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Doug McDonnell
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Re: shift linkage question

#58 Post by Doug McDonnell »

Having done this on 3 of the 4 356B/C s I have owned I can't understand why the peace pipe would need to be removed and reinserted more than once if the shift lock was removed.
1965 356C 2000 BMW 740i Sport 1967 Honda CL77 There is never enough time to do it right, but always enough time to do it over.

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Brett Meyer
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Re: shift linkage question

#59 Post by Brett Meyer »

Doug ,
sometimes installing the peace pipe in , it is off to one side of the tranny shaft when done,
and I need another go at it as the cable housings wont let it just slide over so I have to make sure it follows a "correct" path to mate with the trans/coupler shaft.
I leave the lock/clamp at the trans but ours is a tight fit nonetheless.
When the car was restored in the early '90's a proper stoddards floor pan was installed and probably not perfect tunnel clearance.
 '60 Roadster -87234- Mom & Dad purchased in 1960



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